Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 26, 2011 09:22pm | #1

   Zar tung oil wipe on is just a thinned polyurethane varnish.  With maple, it certainly can bring out nascent figure, sometimes called blotching.  But you are talking about getting a smooth finish, not just blotching.  What  exactly do you see that isn't just right?  Spalted wood will be very porous and will absorb a lot of finish before it begins to build a film on the surface.  If that's the problem your solution is patience and perseverance.  That is sand with 320 grit on a sanding block, and apply another coat.  Repeat that process until the paper on the block begins to touch  the porous spots as well  It may a number of additional coats.  If you sand relatively vigorously you won't have build a film that is too thick to look attractive.

   I suggest applying the coats in "sets" of about three coats in a day, spaced with just enough time for the varnish to lose it's tackiess.  You need not sand between coats, but after three coats you must let the set dry for overnight, and then sand before beginning another set.   If after you have reached the "level" spot, you apply one more set of three, you will have a thick enough film to rub it out to what ever sheen you want short of a really high shine. 

   If I have misread your problem, let us know how you applied the finish as well as a description of the problem. 

   Oh, for next time with spalted lumber it is good to seal it with dewaxed shellac and use that for leveling.  Shellac dries so quickly that this is a much faster process than using varnish. 

1. 
   barn1188 | May 01, 2011 05:23pm | #2

   Zar tung oil

   I have noticed it is blotchy a little and it just is not a nice finish or to my liking. Is there somthing u would recommend for my last coat to go over the existing finish.

   thanks

   josh

1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 02, 2011 07:38am | #3

   What exactly is not to your liking?  What specifically is not nice about it?  Describe what you call blotchy.  Blotchy usually means color variations which are generally due to swirling grain that makes some areas take finish differently than others.  Short of completely stripping off the varnish, there isn't anything to be done about that.  Any finish that "wets out" the wood and particularly those that are not water clear will exhibit that problem.  Even mineral spirits would display that sort of blotchiness until it evaporated.  That's typically what you want to see with curly maple since that makes the figure more prominant. 

   How many coats of the Zar have you applied?  Were these brushed on or wiped on?  What kind of sanding did you do between coats?  We have got to know what you did and the details of how it looks in order to figure out the best way to fix it. 

1. 
   barn1188 | May 07, 2011 06:11pm | #4

   Sorry I have not gotten back earlier  I have been working alot. I have 5 coats on and I wipe it on. I use steel wool 0000 after each coat. It has the wets out look like u said in some of it but I do expect that. What should I do next? More coats or is there somthing I should put over it to finish? What would u recommend for curly maple as a finish next time.

   thank you so much for your help

   josh

   
1. 
   SteveSchoene | May 07, 2011 11:14pm | #5

   Mostly what I see is attractive wood, with a little spalting, some natural stains, and plenty of grain patterns.  It is heartwood isn't it, never going to look like the bland, cream colored sap wood.  I only see a couple of areas that might be troubling and I suspect they are artifacts of light reflection.  Near the top of the picture on the left side plank, and then a bit lower down on the right side plank there is are areas that appear a bit hazy or cloudy.  Is that what is troubling you?  Do different angles or different lighting change the appearance in those areas, or is there actual fog in the finish?