I am a novice woodworker building a kitchen table and could use a few tips. I am in the process of finishing the top, which is made of birdseye maple and cherry. I have applied 6 coats of tung oil so far. My questions are as follows:
1. How long should I wait after the last tung oil coat before applying finish coats?
2. What would be the best finish coat to use over tung oil for maximum durability?
3. What type of lacquer would work well in this case?
4. What type of clear acrylic is best for filling in knot holes?
Any help tips will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Replies
I'd wait until the tung oil is well cured, a process that can easily take two weeks in warm, dry conditions. That assumes that you really used tung oil. If the label said Tung Oil Finish it may have had no tung oil in it, but might have been either a wiping varnish (Formby's), or a mix of linseed oil and varnish (Minwax). It is only tung oil if it says 100% or Pure Tung Oil. What brand did you use?
You needn't have used 6 coats of oil, either tung or linseed. One coat to pop figure is sufficient.
Maximum durability with hand applied finishes is with a varnish. A varnish made with phenolic resin might be slightly tougher than one with alkyd. No need for polyurethane varnish--its great for the kind of abrasion floors get, but I assume you will take your shoes off before walking on the kitchen table.
NC Lacquer isn't nearly as durable as oil based varnish. If you want the most protective spray finish you would use a conversion varnish, but don't plan to repair it very easily, and I'll leave to experts whether there is a compatibility problem with tung oil and conversion varnish and it's specified sealer. Working down the durability scale, but still pretty good is post-lacquer followed by pre-catalyzed lacquer. Nitro-cellulose lacquer, which used to be the furniture standard until recently is only moderately protective for kitchen tables. Finishes that meet the KCMA standards ought to be satisfactory, though that is based on using the manufacturer's specific finishing schedule, and tung oil won't be on that.
I've used epoxy to fill knots. I'm not really familiary with clear acyrlic for this use, but I would also worry whether solvents in lacquer or other solvent based spray finishes would attack acyrlic. I hope someone will chime in on this.
1. 6 coats is a heckuva lot. see above answer
2. Probably shellac first to seal it so no tung oil creeps up. Then polyurethane or lacquer.
3. Since you're a newbie I wouldn't recommend lacquer since you prolly don't have a sprayer.
4. Small holes can be filled with shellac or sealer.
Expert since 10 am.
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