Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jul 20, 2005 05:50pm | #1

   That is a HARD one so I'll back off and let the finishin' experts tell you..

   Sorry...

2. 
   ring | Jul 20, 2005 05:51pm | #2

   Mike,

   You are right not to use any technique that involves wet sanding.  A clear lacquer would be perfect, but if you absolutely must stain the oak, you need to block everything else with masking tape while doing that.  Until you have built up a substantial layer of sealer do not sand at all.  The dust from the wenge will get into the grain of the oak, etc...

   DR

3. 
   jackplane | Jul 20, 2005 06:00pm | #3

   Buy a spray can of clear lacquer and have at it. Anything else like staining, is inviting trouble.

    

4. 
   Gretchen | Jul 20, 2005 06:43pm | #4

   Put a clear finish over it all.  Wipe with mineral spirits to see what it will look like.

   Gretchen
5. 
   cherryjohn | Jul 21, 2005 12:04am | #5

   four coats of shellac..sanding with 220 in between............ shellac goes with anything

   Wicked Decent Woodworks

   (oldest woodworking shop in NH)

   Rochester NH

   " If the women dont find you handsome, they should at least find you handy........yessa!"

6. 
   jazzdogg | Jul 21, 2005 05:50am | #6

   Mike,

   If you have scrap on hand, I recommend you glue up a few test pieces and experiment before applying any finishes or stains to your completed project.

   I have amassed a collection of labeled test pieces over the years: the ones that worked enable me to repeat simple or multi-step finishes even years later; I make sure to keep the labeled "failures" as well, as the information they contain has also been valuable.

   If you ever decide to make furniture for fun & profit, test pieces are a great way to present prospective finishes to clients; I have them sign and date the back of the test piece for the finish they select for their project - just in case there's a disagreement when the project is completed (knock wood - there's never been a disagreement).

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask youself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   CraigC | Jul 21, 2005 04:06pm | #7

   Sounds like a nice piece; I would definitey do test samples. You might want to consider a simple wiping varnish; varnish thinned 50-60% with mineral spirits for the first coat, 30-40% on successive coats with Scotchbrite sanding between coats. After final, 0000 steel wool and after a couple of weeks paste wax. You won't see the depth/color until around the 3-4 coat, tending towards 'amberish'. With 5-6 coats I think you've got a surface that is a little more impervious than lacquer or shellac.Craig

7. 
   clint1 | Jul 21, 2005 05:28pm | #8

   Does sound like a nice piece Mike.  The lighter tones of the red oak sound like a nice contrast to the darker species.  Is that really all that bad?- some of my best work occurs when I put aside my biases and just let the piece be what it is.  Having said that I agree with your assesment of red oak as lack-lustre.  However tung oil will  bring out the subtle pink of the wood and rust red of the grain (very warm).  It's all I use on red oak.  To stain only part of the piece defeats your design objective of naturally contrasting woods- doesn't it?  Rub IN not on six coats.  Apply to the entire piece, wait 15 mins. wipe, wait a day repeat.  After sixth coat wait two days and apply a clear topcoat.  As a game board beverages and snacks will probably come into play so consider polyurethane.  To avoid eye strain I would use a satin finish as shiny things are hard to look at for long periods.  Give it 4-6 coats of poly for depth.  I wouldn"t wet sand red oak- it's too porous.  After finish sanding I just vaccume it off with a cervix tool to get the pores clean.