All,
I had a bit of walnut hanging around and decided to make a version of the candle holder featured in the latest issue of FWW by Lonnie Bird. I cut the scrolling portion (convex and concave shapes) on the bandsaw with a 1/4″ blade and the surface is quite rough. What is the right way to smooth the surface of the scrolling..so that you get nice flat surfaces on the curves? I’ve tried to file and sandpaper…but, not so good…the edges get rounded. Any suggestions, thanks
Replies
BG,
I would use a round-soled spokeshave--assuming the cut radius isn't too tight. If the radius is too small I would use a scraper or the side of a scratch stock.
If you don't have any of those tools, and you have no drum sander, you can try rasps and wood files. Other than that, sandpaper wrapped around a dowel is about the only thing I can think of.
Alan
Alan,
Thanks for the suggestions. Working on the concave shapes are not too difficult because, as you point out, I can use sandpaper wrapped around dowels and the like...except where the shape changes direction...that last 1/4" or so becomes a problem. On the convex shapes is where I get stuck...the spokeshave is a bit too big and there is a lot of end grain and using a scraper I worry about tearout. What your saying is there are no specialized hand tools for this task.
BG,
I know of no tools meant to do what you need--but that doesn't mean there isn't one. Perhaps someone else will know of the perfect tool. I can, though, add another to my list, a Dremel-like thingy. Unfortunately, if you don't have one...
For some reason I didn't realize you need to smooth both convex and concave edges. For the concave spots, if a spokeshave is too clumsy and there seems no other, easier way, I'd still try a scraper before sandpaper.
You shouldn't have any tear out using a scraper. They aren't so agressive that tear out is likely. The only thing to be careful about is to be sure you're scraping "uphill" into, or across, the rising grain.
Again, if you don't want to try a scraper or the side of a scratch stock, I'd try a rasp and wood file before I'd surrender to sandpaper. A good rasp, such as a Nicholson #48 or #50 cuts very fast and leaves a remarkably smooth surface that wood files--or your sandpaper and dowel--will easily finish.
For the convex parts, again, I'd try the exact same things. In descending order of desirability: spokeshave, scraper, rasp and file, the bad sandpaper.
I'm sorry I can't be more help. I hope one of the better, more knowledgeable folk around here (which would be everybody) knows better ways.
Alan
Alan,
Nope, your answer was perfect. Being a novice I'm never really sure what is out there, when to make and use a jig, when a pattern is necessary, etc., etc. and your answer assured me to just take my time and get it done using my eyes and fingers.
I made a cuppa tea, turned on the radio and spent a coupla hours today scraping away gently. I used a popsicle stick with 150,220 grit paper stuck to it to remove the heavy rasp marks and then hit the curves again with the scraper...so I had a nice solid wood look when finished..no fuzz. I used some BLO with Trans Tint and they look pretty good...not perfect, but acceptable. I probably need some of those tiny curved files for the future.
Thanks for your help
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