Replies

1. 
   stancalow | May 03, 2002 04:13am | #1

   pjk63

   I am just finishing a walnut jewelry box.  I used 3 coats of Watco danish oil in their light walnut color.  The color helped even the tone between the different pieces of walnut I used.  You have to let it cure for a few days between coats.   Then I used three coats of 1-2 lb cut orange shellac.  I sanded with 400+ sandpaper between coats, and the shellac filled the grain pretty well without grain filler.   The orange shellac gave the walnut a much nicer, warmer tone.  It's pretty glossy, so I may skip a lacquer or poly coat.  This is my first project with walnut, so I hope others with more experience will chime in. 

1. 
   Alan | May 03, 2002 05:26pm | #2

   Stan,

   You're right.  Orange shellac  does leave a nice warm color on walnut.  I've made a few little boxes of walnut and the finish I've used gives a deep, rich, warm look to the walnut, without building up a heavy film finish.  This is going to sound quite weird; but stay with me.

   First, I use a filler.  On a small project like this, which is going to be viewed close-up and held in hands, I like the wood to be smooth to both the eye and the touch.

   After filling, the magic formula is (should I be giving away all my secrets?) equal parts of orange shellac (3 Lb. cut) boiled linseed oil and paraffin oil.  (I told you it was weird!)  Yes, I know, shellac and oil don't mix (water and oil).  They don't stay mixed forever, but they do stay mixed long enough to apply it to the wood.  In a jelly jar mix up (bad choice of words) enough for only two or three coats at a time.  Just before use, make sure the lid is on tight, and shake the jelly jar like a bottle of salad dressing.  The three components will mix, temporarily, into an emulsion.  Apply it to the wood with 0000 steel wool or a fine Scotch pad.  Rub it in well, but without a lot of pressure.  One coat per day is plenty; one coat every other day would be better.  Keep at it until the wood looks just right to you.  I generally put on at least 10 coats, sometimes twice that.

   As you may have guessed, the finish this leaves gives you the best of both an oil finish and a film finish.  Somehow this concoction seems to go into the wood and build the finish from the inside out.  You wind up with great depth, flat-gorgeous color, and a finish that feels good to touch.

   Yes, this is a very labor intensive finish; there's no instant gratification; it can be difficult to find paraffin oil; and it is feasible only on small projects.  But if you try it the look will knock you out!  Really!

   Alan

1. 
   stancalow | May 05, 2002 04:49am | #3

   Alan

   Thanks for the information.  As a hobbiest not a pro, I can affor dto experiment.  My local wooworking store has prrafin wax, but I'm not sure what this adds to the mix.  I understand the opila nd shellac, but assume the wax helps make a smooth finish.  I never thought or heard of usign the steel wool to apply the finish.  I have troubel getting a brush or cloth to make a smooth finish, so thats a good tip.

   Thanks

   Stan

1. 
   Biscardi | May 05, 2002 05:26am | #4

   Sand to 220. One coat of linseeb oil (boiled). Let try overnight. 2 Lbs cut of buttonlac that has been strained. Use three or four coats (wiped or brushed). Rub with 0000 steel wool between coats. Rub out with mineral oil and rottenstone.Wax.

   Simple, very pretty and inexpensive.

   Frank 

2. 
   Alan | May 05, 2002 05:37am | #5

   Stan,

   Paraffin oil is not itself wax or even waxy.  It's rather thin, about the same as mineral spirits.   It's normally used as a lubricant when rubbing out a finish with pumice and rottenstone.  I think (this is just a guess) that it acts like a medium and a thinner for both the shellac and the BLO so they can penetrate the wood.

   If you try this please let me know how you like the finish you get.

   Alan