Replies

1. 
   Pondfish | Jan 04, 2006 10:18pm | #1

   There's nothing wrong with your plan, just be sure to give the oil a week (or more) before applying the poly.

   That said, poly is not the most attractive topcoat, and one of the hardest to repair.  I'd use shellac or lacquer before I used poly (it's very easy to apply, but imho, ugly).  If brushing lacquer and breathing MEK fumes isn't your cup of tea, I'd go with shellac.  It's a very nice finish, easy to apply and repair, and quite hard when dried.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
1. 
   DJBPS | Jan 06, 2006 12:27am | #3

   Hi Pondfish,

   Thanks for the reply. A couple of questions if you could ...

   1. Do I need to wait the week? What are the impacts of waiting less than that?

   2. Would I still need to wait the week if applying shellac or lacquer?

   Thanks again,

   Dan

    

1. 
   Pondfish | Jan 06, 2006 01:16am | #4

   A 7 day wait is prudent, but 48 hours should be enough. 

   The wait is to let the oil cure fully before it is covered with the topcoat.  Curing requires oxygen, and covering the oil with a topcoat will severely restrict available oxygen to the oil.  It won't make a big difference since your topcoat will be much harder than the oil film, but it may make a difference in how well the top coat adheres to the underlying layer.  Shellac is a very sticky substance, so I suspect you won't have trouble if you apply a topcoat of shellac 48 hours after applying your last coat of oil.  Just be sure to wipe the oil as dry as possible (after letting it sit for 30-60 minutes, or whatever the manufacturer recommends.

   Another reason to wait longer is that sometimes uncured oil will seep out of the wood.  If you don't see any seepage after 24 hours, it isn't likely (in my experience) that you will see any.

   Despite the popoular contention that shellac isn't a hard finish, it is.  It's plenty hard and for a dresser it is a good choice since it can be easily repaired if something happens to it.  Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005

1. 
   DJBPS | Jan 06, 2006 04:54pm | #5

   Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jan 07, 2006 06:48pm | #6

   I would pay attention to what Steve said.  Shellac or lacquer is not the best finish to use on a dresser or dressing table.  Neither stand up to things like hairspray overspray, nail polish or nail polish remover.  A non-poly varnish is the preferred non-spray finish.Howie.........

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 04, 2006 11:37pm | #2

   You don't need to use the polymerized tung to bring out the contrast.  One coat of BLO or regular 100% Tung Oil will also satisfy that function.  Polymerized is more protective but if you are going to apply a top coat you don't really need that feature.  I agree that either shellac or lacquer will look better than poly, but aren't nearly as protective.  You can make a good tradeoff by using a traditional resin varnish that will be almost, but not quite, as protective, but look better and rubbout more easily.  I like Behlen Rockhard, or Pratt and Lambert 38 (for a lighter colored varnish), or, if you can find it, Ronan Quick Rubbing Varnish is my favorite.  It also isn't a bad idea to use shellac or lacquer for the body, and put a couple of coats of varnish on the top. 

3. 
   user-86952 | Jan 07, 2006 09:45pm | #7

   You need to let any solvent in the oils to dry 72 hours alot more in cooler temp. or high humity . If you apply a water based poly to soon than it will be milky. Then stripping is your only recourse. Try the finish on some scraps. An thinner based clear coat will deeping your finish ( slight amber) again try it on scrap first.

4. 
   SBerruezo | Jan 15, 2006 09:59am | #8

   I just made a cribbage board for my brother out of zebrawood, and finished it with Watco Danish Oil.  Excess oil seeped out of the board for at least 2 days, probably 3.  I rubbed it down anytime I wandered into my shop, but it kept coming out.

    

   Young, poor, and eager to learn

5. 
   Hotzcatz | Jan 16, 2006 09:00am | #9

   Aloha Dan,

   For an incredible finish, you might want to consider shellac applied by "French polishing". It is pretty easy once you try it and the finish is to die for.  Makes the poly-whatever, varnish and lacquer finishes seem dull and muddy. 

   I buy assorted dry shellac flakes and mix them with denatured alcohol to make small batches of fresh shellac whenever I need it.  You can get different colors of flakes depending on what you are shellacing.  I just put some super blond shellac on some butcher block and it came out lovely.  For a koa knife block, it was garnet shellac.  Lovely stuff!

   If the finish does get damaged, you can repair it with denatured alcohol and a bit more shellac. 

   Ordering shellac flakes online is easy and probably less time consuming than trying to find them at your local hardware store.   www.shellac.net/   The flakes can also be stored indefinately, so whenever you need them, you will have them.  Much better than old dried up half cans of shellac on the shelf.

   A hui hou,
   Cathy

    

1. 
   DJBPS | Jan 16, 2006 08:02pm | #10

   Thanks for everyone’s input; it was truly appreciated.

    <!----><!----><!---->

   I actually ended up using 3 coats of tung oil followed by 2 coats of varnish (P&L 38). I’m happy with the depth of color as well as the evenness of the varnish. The only area I’m not really happy with is that the varnish tends to leave minor brush marks on the maple (not noticeable with the mahogany or zebrawood). A minor point that I’m sure I could rub out, if I only had the time!

    <!----><!---->

   Dan