Replies

1. 
   bilyo | May 04, 2022 11:05pm | #1

   Use a dye such as Transtint to get the color you want. Apply a seal coat of shellac if you like (not necessary, but may help when using a water based dye and a water based finish), Then apply two-three coats of water based polyurethane. Fast, easy, and durable. All of it can be sprayed with easy clean-up.
   I have no advice regarding pre-finishing. I've never done it. It seems like unnecessary complexity to me.

1. 
   jovogtmd | May 05, 2022 07:39am | #4

   Thank you! Am traveling to NH to take a friend and will stop by Woodcraft there in Portsmouth for the tint

2. 
   rob_ss | May 05, 2022 02:00am | #2

   I like water based poly on ash - it works well.
   I don't personally like amber shellac though - I tried that and frankly it looked nasty. If I wanted that sort of look, I'd go with a stain then the poly over.
   As always, test pieces are essential

1. 
   jovogtmd | May 05, 2022 07:40am | #5

   Great! I have the clear seal coat version of the shellac and will go with that. Then tint...testing...you bet!!

1. 
   stevieray | May 05, 2022 01:34pm | #9

   Is amber Seal Coat dewaxed? I'm interested in the poster's question too. I plan on building a sideboard out of quartersawn white oak and want to darken it slightly before applying an oil finish.

   My understanding is that the oil requires a dewaxed shellac. Is there tinted dewaxed shellac? The reason I prefer shellac to dyeing is the ease of applying and the fact that you can dial in the finish by applying more coats.

1. 
   john_c2 | May 05, 2022 01:53pm | #10

   Zinsser Sealcoat is dewaxed. It's a little amber in color. Zinsser also has an Amber Shellac, which is not dewaxed.

1. 
   jovogtmd | May 05, 2022 02:48pm | #12

   I found that I could dewax the Amber Shellac just by leaving it alone over night and then "skimming" the top shellac off. The wax residual sits on the bottom of the can.

2. 
   jovogtmd | May 05, 2022 02:47pm | #11

   Yes, it is dewaxed. But as was pointed out above, I, too, found the amber color seal coat not what I wanted....though it was supposed to be "golden" it turned out to be rather yellow on Ash. I am going to try the Transtint "mission brown" color for fun.

3. 
   _mj_ | May 05, 2022 06:28am | #3

   Tape over the joinery areas with Frogtape and cut out the mortises, then preassemble and use a marking knife to score the tape. Take it apart and remove all but the glue areas, re-cover the mortises, tape off your tenons, and you're ready to prefinish. Frogtape has less seepage than blue painter's tape and comes off cleaner.

4. 
   jovogtmd | May 05, 2022 07:43am | #6

   This will be the first time I try the prefinishing idea, as half the furniture has been dry assembled but then left alone until the MC of my wood gets up to 12 to 13 (Maine summers) from the 7 it was in February.
   Thank you on the tips of how to do it.

5. 
   _mj_ | May 05, 2022 08:11am | #7

   I just do one sealer coat to help with squeeze out and handling, with the bulk of the finishing after assembly.

6. 
   jovogtmd | May 05, 2022 08:25am | #8

   Just what I was planning to do....thanks!!

7. 
   FSmyles | May 05, 2022 05:10pm | #13

   I recommend Sutherland Welles Tung Oil. Wipe on. Wipe off. First coat or two should be thinned 50% with odorless mineral spirits to get a better bond.

   Will nicely amber over time and can easily be recoated at any time.

   Also won't look like the Ash is covered in a plastic film.

   Frankie

1. 
   jovogtmd | May 05, 2022 05:51pm | #14

   Thank you! I will look into this option

8. 
   user-7737453 | May 05, 2022 08:20pm | #15

   These utility pieces show one approach to finishing ash to get a warm look. (Bench is ash; legs of shop stool are ash.) There are many options revolving around seal coat of alcohol-diluted Zinsser Seal Coat followed by aniline dyes of various colors. Then a coat of undiluted Seal Coat with some dye added followed by three coats of General Finishes ArmRSeal. I used Wood Finishing Enterprises antique maple/perfect brown dissolved in alcohol applied twice. I pre finish with the shellac and dye using tape to mask off surfaces to be glued. The ARS goes on after assembly. Let cure for two weeks or so and finish with scuffing and wax/oil. Sample boards a must. Thanks to the Emerald Ash borer, ash is reasonably priced and readily available here in Western Connecticut.

   
1. 
   jovogtmd | May 05, 2022 10:15pm | #16

   This is great! Thank you!! You are correct about pricing. I am getting Ash 4/4 RGH at 3.67, 4/4 Qtr RGH at 5.77, and 8/4 RGH at 4.50. These prices have been stable for the past year in N.H. I have told my wife that 20 years from now furniture made of Ash may be quite valuable, as the wood may no longer be available then, if there is no solution to the Ash Borer issue.