I’m making a sideboard from ash. I’ve matched the panels for color and figure as best as I could. I’d like to keep the natural blond color of ash as much as practical, but because some of the adjacent boards which make up the panels have color variations, I’m thinking about adding some color/tint to better match them. The attached pictures aren’t too great, but perhaps they’re good enough to give you an understanding of what the wood figure/coloring in the panels look like
I’m thinking about using Waterlox for a finish, but don’t have experience with it.
Does it give much of an amber color to ash? Does the Original formula add color different from the Sealer formula? Can color (such as Transtint) be added to help match color between panels? Would a blond Shellac help balance color on adjacent boards?
Thanks much!
Replies
Per Hal Taylor's advice - I use a 50/50 mix of poly and mineral spirts.
This is Wipe-On-Poly - apply with wipe on and wipe off application.
I typically stop at 2 coats possible a thinner 3rd coat. The 3rd application of 50/50 mix will definitely start to show the poly finish.
Do some test pieces before applying to your side board.
Waterlox will amber as much as anything oil based; you can preview the color by wiping the wood with mineral spirits.
If you like that look, it is a great finish. To preserve the look of the bare wood, you will need lacquer or acrylics or waxes, which aren't my area.
There are many new forms of Waterlox, but the original sealer/finish is one product, a high octane full varnish made with phenolic resin, and can be used start to finish. It is both penetrating and film forming, and unlike polyurethane, is spot-repairable and does not require sanding between coats for adhesion. It contains no flattening agents and will leave a semi-gloss finish to start, and the sheen will mellow after it cures. The company makes satin and high-gloss topcoats, but they must be applied over two or three coats of the original sealer/finish.
Transtint is not compatible with oil based finishes, but mixol is, or a high voc traditional oil based stain.
Tinting a finish can be tricky; if you want to blend colors across the boards I would experiment with using very diluted transtint as a dye, and then finishing with Waterlox.
I find Waterlox to be a gorgeous finish. Wiped, brushed, rubbed out, waxed, anything. For me, the combination of protection and beauty can't be beat. However, it is a bit particular about the environment in which it's applied.
If you want to keep the "natural blond" color stay away from oil based finishes. And Waterlox is one of the more amber of the oils. For your preferences, you should probably go with a water based polyurethane. These are water clear and will impart no color to the wood. Some folks find this objectionable. I suggest you try it on some scrap before using it on a final piece. If you want just a hint of color, you can put on a first coat of shellac and even add some Transtint to that if you want even more color. Good luck and please show us some pictures when its done.
Osmo Polyx Raw is the perfect finish. I use it on all of my ash builds. Easy to apply and it keeps it the most natural looking. It doesn't yellow it like normal osmo or waterlox would.
https://osmocolorusa.com/product/polyx-oil-raw/
+1 on the Osmo Polyx Raw for ash. Stupid easy to use, and natural look is great - I almost forget I finished the piece.
+1 as well. I am a new convert to Osmo - such a good product and I have used it on Ash to great results.
mix up a batch of super blonde shellac. Also, tung oil won't "yellow." That's pure tung oil, not tung oil product.
I’ve been using a lot of ash recently and my go to finish has been Enduro-Var waterborne varnish from General Finishes. It has a light amber coloring agent and once dry is the hardest finish , it comes out beautifully, not quite as amber/yellow as the oil based finishes.
Thanks everyone for the thoughts. I've never used Osmo before, so thanks for the suggestion.
I took some more pictures of panels and you can see the texture and color variation more clearly. The first photo was wiped with mineral spirits to bring out the color.
The sideboy's design is pretty clean with simple joinery.
Thoughts on whether the color variations will be distracting, or if a light stain under oil could even out the color? Or, do I celebrate the grain and color variations with something like a gel stain?
I'm another osmo fan, but have used water-based poly with good results on ash too.
The feel Osmo gives to a piece is amazing but the level of protection is small. Repair is very easy and this is good as Osmo is very unforgiving of an imperfect sanding job. Any swirls WILL show, but you can simply sand them away either with the finish wet or cured and re-apply and you'd never know.
You can get Osmo in test packs but since it's awesome on furniture, you might as well buy a can.
As to whether the grain is irritating - Ash has pronounced grain and colour variation is for me, part of the charm. I try not to put very light pieces next to very dark bits though.
I made this Roubo frame saw out of ash. I used blond shellac. I was happy with the way it looked. As it was all out of one big 8 quarter board, I can't speak to color variance. Easy enough to test. If you don't like it, a rag with ethanol will remove the shellac.
Noting that Waterlox is actually a wiping varnish. So it does create an (amber) film. But I would use waterborne poly or lacquer if you want clear.
I’ve been happy with Arm R Seal on ash, which I think is in the same vein as Waterlox but slightly less ambering. An entertainment center a few years ago and just finished a coffee table.
If you stain don’t use a water based stain. The surface tension will leave un stained spots. Don’t ask me how I know that:-)
General Finishes makes some well regarded water based top coats. I’ve never found that water based topcoat are offensive but they aren’t the same as an oil.
Mike
And worth noting, ash and oak's open pores can allow bubbles to ruin your finish, so whatever you use pay attention to that. Spraying bubbles less than brushing, which seems to be the worst, air bubbles getting in the brush and spreading onto the wood. Wiping finishes seem to do it less too, and if you see bubbles after wiping, or even a while later before it sets, you can rewipe with a little fresh finish, more work to do with a brush finish.
I installed this ash trim for a staircase yesterday, 3 coats of enduro-var semi-gloss, took advantage of the two color tones of wood.