Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | May 16, 2007 04:37am | #1

   Bill,

   Minwax will not stand up to the rigors of kitchen counter top use. Not even for a few days. You need an industrial strength surface, no less. A catalyzed varnish or lacquer would be a far better choice or Behlens Rock Hard varnish. Yes. I would fill the pores with a dark-tinted silex pore filler under either of these.

   BUT, the question really begs the wisdom of wood for any use in a kitchen as a counter top. You didn't ask, but I'll say it anyway - it's a very questionable choice no matter what the surface coating. The surface will eventually fail.

   There is a very good reason for the popularity of quartz counters, other "solid surfaces" (Corion and the like), granite, concrete and all the laminate materials. They do the job. A wood surface is an invitation to maintenance problems.

   Rich

   
   

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   Edited 5/15/2007 9:41 pm ET by Rich14

2. 
   user-83153 | May 16, 2007 05:19am | #2

   Bill,

     In addition to what Rich said (which I basically agree with), your projected finish schedule has some other problems. Namely, oil/varnish blends are an "in the wood" or non-film forming finish. If you are going to fill the pores on the wood you are going to need something to hold the filler in the pores, something like a film forming finish over the top of it. Also you are talking about using Minwax brand. The mother of all consumer grade finishes. :(

     If you are going to go through with this idea I would suggest that you fill the pores with a filler designed for the purpose and use Behlens Rockhard as the finish. Or if you have the necessary equipment, one of the other options Rich suggested. You will then have to be very careful with what you do on these counters, and how you clean and maintain them.

               Rob

3. 
   BarryO | May 16, 2007 11:10am | #3

   Why bubinga for kitchen counter tops? 

   As the other posts have said, using wood in such an application is problematic.  Also, I think it's kinda a shame to subject such a spectacular (and expensive) wood to such hard use (abuse).

4. 
   ring | May 16, 2007 01:57pm | #4

   Bill,

   When we make wooden countertops for clients, they need to sign a waiver that they understand the problems inherent in the design and agree to take responsibility for what happens down the road. That said, we've done more than a few, even one in bubinga. Sorry I don't have a photo. Let me suggest a compromise: Use something else like stainless or Corian for the sink area, and use wood in the areas beyond the "wet zone". I would suggest pre-cat lacquer for the countertop, and finish both sides and edges well.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e