Replies

1. 
   4DThinker | Mar 18, 2005 10:05pm | #1

   It's been a long time since I made anything with bubinga.  But I still have those things, and they still look great.  All had 3 or more coats of pure tung oil on them.

   Dave B.

1. 
   MKM | Mar 19, 2005 02:14am | #2

   Thanks for the information on bubinga finishing!

   Kent

1. 
   mudman | Mar 19, 2005 06:23am | #3

   this just has about 6 sprayed coats of shellac.

   Mike

    please excuse my spelling.

   
1. 
   allenh | Apr 20, 2006 01:44am | #6

   I just finished making an entrance table with jatoba and walnut. The jaTOBA IS EXTREMELY HARD AND DIFFICULT TO WORK WITH BUT ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WOODS I've used. Is bubinga easier to work with and does it have as much character? See the picture in No. 184, pg 81 of a project made by a reader with bubinga and walnut.

    

2. 
   Pondfish | Mar 19, 2005 03:20pm | #4

   Oil/varnish is a good finish.  If the bubinga is quartersawn, you will need to use a lot of o/v for the first coat, as the wood will absorb a lot.  I prefer a darker oil (BLO or teak) than tung for bubinga, especially for the first coats, as the darker oil will absorb more into figured areas, highlighting the figure.

   Bubinga has more pores than a teenager's face.  After the second coat is applied, wet sand with #320 (or even #220) to work up a dust/oil slurry.  This will work into the pores and seal the wood.  You may have to repeat this step a couple of times; just look at the wood surface at a low angle to see if the pores have filled.  In time they will, leaving you a smooth, clear surface.  Another few light coats of o/v applied every couple days will give you a nice, glossy finish.

1. 
   mudman | Mar 19, 2005 09:07pm | #5

   Paul made a good point. I sanded liberally between each coat to level the finish. Also I more likely put 10 coats on it for fear of sanding through.

   Mikeplease excuse my spelling.