Replies

1. 
   gwcarpenter | Oct 19, 2002 06:37am | #1

   Ken, cherry is a breeze... for color... "suntan" it. IE, expose to sunlight or UV for a couple of hours.

   As to finish, "Waterlok" works for a semi-gloss, as does shellac.

   The later gives low fumes... alchohol vs. turps.

   -gwc

2. 
   LeeEschen | Oct 19, 2002 09:45am | #2

   You might try Watco oil in your choice of stain or natural.

   --

   Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon

   On the Redwood Highway

3. 
   Danford_C_ | Oct 19, 2002 05:21pm | #3

   Ken,

   Since the "search" function here is about as useful as teats on a boar hog; here's a "reprint" of a posting I did a couple of years ago:

   In this forum and others there seems to be a lot of questions asked about Cherry blotching. Having never experienced this phenomena in almost 40 years in working with wood, I thought I would share how I have avoided this problem because I really don't think that I could be that lucky.

   As with any wood, surface preparation, IMHO, is the most critical yet often over looked due to impatience in getting the project done, tediousness of the operation, or lack of knowledge. When ever possible I avoid abrading (sanding) and use hand planes and scrapers. The primary reason that I do this is that regardless of how fine the grit is you will still end up "roughing" the wood fibers as opposed to slicing them. By abrading the wood, I feel that one leaves them selves open to problems in the application of stain and/or finish. Only until all surfaces have a glass smooth appearance will I move on to the next operation.

   Cherry is one of the few woods where sapwood and heartwood is not only acceptable but, desirable as well. Because of the scarcity of Black Cherry in my neck of the woods, I have incorporated the use of stain and "sun tanning." Since I do live in an area where there is frequent sunshine I will darken the pieces by laying them out in the sun before after surface preparation for about 4-6 hours.

   I use Minwax Wood Finish, Cherry (#235) which is an oil-based stain that they claim is also a sealer. I brush the stain on with medium loading going with the grain. I work the stain in by going across the grain and then with the grain. I will let the stain stand for about 10-20 minutes depending on the weather. The temperature determines length of time. After the stain has set, I use a clean 100% cotton "rag" (old T-shirt) and wipe off the excess stain. If you buy your rags make sure they are lint free. Some outlets sell packaged remnants of 100% cotton T-shirts and skivies, I have found that these are no good for applying finish since they still contain the sizing. A better term to use might be "rub out." I will go with the grain first with moderate pressure, then use a circular motion with the same pressure, then will use a very light pressure, going with the grain, to "feather" or blend so the surface is "uniform" in shading or tone, if you will.

   After letting the stained piece dry for 24 hours, I am now ready to apply the finish. On high end pieces I French polish but, typically I use Minwax Wipe On Poly in a satin or semi-gloss. When this product arrived here a couple of years back, I was skeptical. After some experimentation I was impressed enough to incorporate this product into my finish operations. Minwax advises against the use of tack cloths with this product and I am here to tell you that it is good advice. Tack cloths do leave a small amount of residue behind that will affect the final finish. I vacuum and use compressed air to clean the piece prior to finish and sanding between coats. I recommend against the use of #0000 steel wool because of the deposits left behind.

   I apply the finish, again using a clean 100% cotton "rag", wiping it on in a circular motion in sections about 2' square and then go with the grain. It is important to work quickly, feathering each section into the last section. I use 220 or 320 grit aluminum oxide with a very light touch between coats. At 70° F drying time, sanding, is about 4-6 hours. Minwax recommends 3-4 coats; I usually go with 6. I sand the second to last coat with 600 grit silicon (dry) with a very light touch.

   The first project that I did using Minwax Wipe On, was my on my kitchen cabinets almost three years ago. It has proven to be an extremely durable finish.

   In conclusion, I would say that using the above techniques should eliminate any "blotching" as it is a technique that I have been using for over 25 years as a professional, with the exception of using Minwax Wipe On Poly.

   Hope this helps.

   Dano

   "Form and Function are One" - Frank L. Wright
4. 
   NickC | Oct 19, 2002 07:41pm | #4

   My personal preference for cherry is an oil and wax finish. Have you ever checked out Thomas Moser furniture? They use linseed oil, applied warm. This will not give you much gloss, but please consider that gloss can cause distracting highlights that may bother musicians, especially if they perform in an area with stron lighting. Nick

1. 
   KenCoe1 | Oct 19, 2002 09:54pm | #5

   Thanks for all the input. I think I will try the "suntan" plan first. I have not found a stain, out of the can, that gives me that ideal  reddish brown cherry color. I'll try the sun and see if that speeds up the darkening process. Thanks again!

1. 
   gwcarpenter | Oct 20, 2002 05:21am | #6

   Ken,

   one thing we've not mentioned. Plane or sand your cherry, then "suntan" it... it will be twice as dark/rich as when first surfaced.

   Then apply finish. Use a oil-type product first, even if you plan on shellac later.

   Your finished piece will be nice looking... rich, colorful, alive.

   Give it two more years, and it will obtain it's true color... deeper yet... so avoid going the red-stain route early... it'll only mud-up the amber highlights.

   -gwc