Replies

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Nov 28, 2001 12:32am | #1

   *
   Dale,

   Click < Obsolete Link > here for more information. This is a discussion I started awhile back on this subject. Hope it helps.

   Dano

1. 
   Dale_Krech | Nov 28, 2001 06:54am | #2

   *Thank you for the information on finishing cherry. If you have a moment, I'd like to describe in more detail what I'm attempting to see if you have other comments or suggestions. The dining table top will be figured cherry resawn veneer, approx 3/32" thick, laminated to 3/4" fin ply substrate. I plan to veneer both sides. Approx 8" wide veneers will be book matched across the width of the top. I'm getting a matched set of 8/4 boards from Good Hope Hardwoods. The veneered top will be "boardered" by solid 6/4 claro walnut. I'd like to leave the cherry unstained, but finish it so that the figure really jumps out.What do you think?Thanks again!Dale

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Nov 28, 2001 08:17am | #3

   *Dale,Instead of sanding, I would use a cabinet scraper and/or card scraper. Boiled linseed oil will really pop the grain. Let cure for about a week. If the table is going to see pretty heavy use I would highly recommend Min Wax Wipe On Poly in a semi-gloss. If only occasional use I would French polish. Sounds real nice, Dale. Dano

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Nov 28, 2001 03:45pm | #4

   *I have not used cherry that much, but I have had excellent results, coloring the wood with hydrated lime mixed in distilled water. Try different ratios, of lime to water to get a color that you like. This stuff won’t do a thing to sapwood, so if your project includes that, ignore this method. After the lime/water dries, the wood will have a terrible orange/white color, but a damp rag will remove most of this, and a coat of linseed oil takes care of the rest. This lime and water mixture will add 100 years to the cherry in 5 minutes.

1. 
   Dale_Krech | Nov 28, 2001 06:53pm | #5

   *Dano,Thanks again for your reply! I read an article several months ago in FWW, which described using a 50-50 mixture of fast dry varnish and naptha. I've used this mixture on some small projects, and seems to work great. Wipe on 6 coats, 2/day, 1 week to final rub out and wax. Comments? I'm hoping you can advise me on how to minimize tear out when running figured wood through a planer. I saw in the news group that someone recommended that wiping the wood with water first would help eliminate tear out. Comments?

2. 
   Howard_Acheson | Nov 28, 2001 07:21pm | #6

   *That's exactly the way I do it. By mixing your own you know what is in it and you avoid paying full price for a reduced resin product. It is virtually identical in performance to a manufactured wipe on varnish.Dano and I disagree on this point but that's what makes things interesting. Sounds like a real nice project.

3. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Nov 29, 2001 12:48am | #7

   *Dale, on highly figured woods I will spritz and then run it through the jointer at an angle, haven't tried it using my thickness planer.Howie, maybe some clarification is in order. I disagree that store bought wipe on finishes are merely "thinned down". FWIW, I do a lot of French polished finishes, so I do make my own, obviously. Bottom line is that the type finish I use is based entirely upon durability concerns of the client.Dano

4. 
   Greg_Millert | Nov 30, 2001 06:11am | #8

   *Dano-I logged on tonight expecting to post a question and found that my question is a hot topic of discussion and you seem to know some of the answers, so here goes.I, too, am building a cherry table. This one is a trestle kitchen table with a solid wood top. I've never had much luck using a cabinet and/or card scraper on cherry. I can have great, nicely grained wood and shortly after I start scraping my great grain disappears and I see the beginning of what will be bad blotches when I apply a finish. Any ideas if I'm doing something wrong.I normally use my own mixture to finish cherry, such as beds or desks--its polyurethane, linseed oil and turpentine. I'm concerned that this will not give a durable finish for the kitchen table but I do like the beauty of this type of rubbed on finish. Will the Min Wax Wipe on Poly give me the durability I need but with a similar hand rubbed finish?Thanks for your help.

5. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Nov 30, 2001 06:01pm | #9

   *Greg,I suspect that the iron and cards scrapers have more of a burr than a hook and need to be re done. As I've stated elsewhere, I have not experienced "blotching" using planes and scrapers in lieu of sanding.I can only say that the Min Wax Wipe On Poly in a satin or semi gloss does give a hand rubbed look and is very durable, I always go with at least 6 coats. Whether or not it is more durable than the mix you use, I can't say for certain. I can say that it is the polyurethane that provides the hardness and durability. FWIW.Dano

6. 
   Greg_Millert | Dec 01, 2001 01:02am | #10

   *Dano-This is very helpful. I'll try resharpening my scrapers. Thanks.