Any experienced comments are appreciated.I am currently building kitchen cabinets for a new house out on cherry.My preference is to apply clear finish of some type but my wife wants them a little darker.So they are going to be darker.She has selected a oil based Zar stain and for lack of a better idea I plan to finish it an oil based poly. I don’t have a sprayer ,however ,I have assess to some.I will probably brush on the finish if nothing else.Any comments or sources of information are greatly appreciated.Cherry is not cheap and making them as you know is a lot of work, so I don’t want to screw up on the selected finish method.
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Replies
Cherry will darken with time, and exposure to the sun.
MMR,
You should move your post over to Skills and Techniques, Finishing section...some of the real pro/knowledge guys hang out there.
Thanks,I saw that after I posted the message.
As JohnD said, cherry will darken over time. Put the finish on some cherry scraps and set one them in direct sunlight for a few hours, each for a different length of time (marked, so you know how long for each). Then, compare them and see which she likes. If it's still not dark enough, more time in the sun will darken it further. If the cabinets won't be in direct sunlight, they won't change drastically after darkening with sunlight but you're still better off stopping before they reach maximum darkness.
There are ways to darken the wood chemically, too. Lye and potassium dichromate will darken it but there are safety issues with these.
I get my lacqer supplier to tint the lacquer to match a sample i am trying to match or a little less and i go from there ,works good for me
If you don't have patience to wait for Cherry to naturally darken (as has been stated earlier), you still have some reasonable options (I've used them all in the past, and had good results).
1. If you want to apply an EVEN finish, seal the wood first. Cherry can blotch easily. Put a 1/2 pound cut of shellac on the piece, dry, sand, then apply an aniline dye (which you can mix/blend yourself to the desired shade), mix up enough to cover the whole project, as it may be difficult to repeat the formula. Then seal with a few coats of poly.
2. Use a GEL stain. These are hand rubbed stains that allow you to get an even color without loosing a lot of the grain effects. They are oil based, so they don't raise the grain of the wood, and can be applied in one coat. I like these a lot, then blend in sap wood as well to more evenly match overall finish. I have tried some pretty dark stains and have had very good results (I recommend Bartleys brand Gel stains).
3. Use a Danish oil (precolored, or color your own using aniline dyes), goes on quick, and really penetrates the wood. Harder to control blotches, but still a desirable alternative to using regular stains.
Sorry for the delayed response.I am working on the house during the week and only back on weekends.Thanks for responding the information is very useful.Have been doing other research and your method seems to be the preferred practice.Will secure materials,do a little practicing and give it a try. Thanks for the detail .
MMR, I would use a lacquer based stain instead of zar. Poly and lacquer clears do not seem to bond to zars wax like feel. In a kitchen I would use ML. Campbell's Crystal sealer and top coat. If you purchase a gravity feed gun HVLP 50 bucks you will find it not too difficult. What ever you do, Do not tint the clear until you get good with the spray gun. You will have highs and lows were your lap marks are.
MMR,
This just a description of my own beliefs, you are free to make your own choices.
Anything other than a crystal clear finish in my dictionary is referred to as "paint".
Cherry is one of Americas prize cabinet woods, it is expensive, durable, darkens with age and starts off as pretty, but become simply beautiful with age. Well made items using cherry won't last a lifetime, they will last forever.
If I want to "paint" something, I would rather use Poplar, Pine, or something else.
If I walk into a furniture store, everything is "painted" it is made for the throw-away society and takes a few nicks, or perhaps only a little time, before it looks "cheap".
"Painting" Cherry, compares to mixing an exquisite single malt scotch, with soda.
I agree with you . The staining is my spouses idea. I told her the darking with age story and most people don't stain cherry.Give me your phone number and I will have her call you so you can tell her what she wants. Really, the stained color she is looking for is only slightly darker than the natural color.There is probably more natural color variation in the wood than what she is looking for in the stain.. The garnet shellac with a little sunlight may do the job
For what it's worth....IMO, cherry is beautiful wood! For kitchens, I've built several sets of full custom cabinets for folks and apply 4 to 6 coats of brush on poly. The stuff is a bit yellowing, but the cherry, as it darkens with light exposure, becomes absolutely beautiful without getting that dungeon finish look. My wife was very uncertain of me using cherry for our own cabinets until she actually looked at some I had built.
sure, you can call it 'paint' but it's pretty nearly bulletproof for staining, water damage, etc. It's gives a great depth to the wood, unlike water based 'clear' poly. Try a couple chunks. I think you'll both like it?
Thanks for the reply.I am a little late, have not been around for awhile. I took several boards and tried several combinations of various dyes,washcoats,regular stain,and gel stain. About 60 bucks worth of stuff.Ended up going with a light stain my wife had cooked up at a local paint store.I followed that up with 3 sprayed on coats of lacquer from Sherman Williams.A planned on the poly but was a little green on spraying with a new setup and went with lacquer because its more forgiving and repairable. Have done the face frames so far and they turned out great.
Thanks again.
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