To answer questions, especially Lee and Ron.
The lacquer is pre cat type-Kiwis make good stuff, but first Zinsser seal coat is sprayed on- I think this is a magic cure all and would drink it if I could (;). Do something else for about an hour, then quick rub with 0000steel wool then a very wet coat of lacquer. About an hour later a quick rub down with 1200 silicon carbide paper and water, then another very wet coat. Leave over night, then use soft cloth stitched mop slow revs in wood lathe to polish with BURNISHING compound-same stuff that is used for auto paint-not cutting or rubbing compound- burnishing compound.Takes about 5 minutes. End of job.
There are some different features on that plane, so I suppose it is an S20A-new version or MK2?
The differences are:-
1)The bed- this is now the same idea as on my bevel down smoothers, plus that little knurled screw serves to retain the adjuster base in place when removing the blade and also keeps the lateral movement stiff-so it stays where you have put it if you remove the blade for sharpening or you change the cut.So the brass ramp is replaced by that steel cross piece, which also is good for holding the sides together, like the bridging pin for the cap.There is a slight weight reduction-down to 3.5 kg.
2)The dovetails- are not double flair. That brass is almost unpeenable. So have left them square and use precision machine taper pins into reamed tapered holes.Anyone who has struggled with a ceased taper on a drill press will know how well this works….plus they are hammered in like rivets and they are alternately offset by 5 degrees from vertical.Guarantees perfect dovetails every time.The picture of the sole shows the square tails.
3)The dimpled knob and cap screws are merely cosmetic.
Pictures show the adjuster-nice and simple, with virtually no back lash.
You can see Uncle Rob’s new A2 blade with Veritas logo, plus my own logo lower down.
It is not very evident in the pictures, but the Dalbergia has more grain feature than usual.