Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Dec 31, 2007 08:20pm | #1

   Hi Lew,

   There is nothing unique to finishing elm, that's probably why you couldn't find any particulars about it.

   If you want to subdue the open pores, filling them is a good idea. Even if they are partially filled they won't have as "hungry" an appearance when the project is finished.

   There a number of ways to go about this. One is to use paste filler. I like to work with uncolored filler so I can tint it as required. If you were to do this, I would suggest you tint it to the lightest color of the wood after you have stained it.

   For tinting you can use universal tinting colors (UTC's), japan colors or artist oil colors.

   The UTC's are not bad, and the japans tend to fade in strong light. The artist oil color will give you a good light fast color.

   If you are leaning towards a golden brown the two colors I would suggest would be raw sienna (golden yellow) and burnt umber (dark chocolate brown)

   When mixing the colors for filler; put a small amount of filler and thinner in separate containers and mix a strong amount of the artist color into it. Mix well so the toothpaste consistency of the color breaks down and becomes liquid. You now have your "color concentrates".

   Starting with the raw sienna, begin mixing it into the filler. Check it occasionally on a paper plate for color. You can add small amounts of burnt umber to turn the light of the yellow down a little as needed.

   One other color that would be useful here is raw umber (a greenish brown). It will be useful to turn the color from the warm (reddish) to the cool side.

   BTW, you can also use the filler untinted. It's all about personal taste.

   Be sure and test your filler on scraps. The schedule would be;

   sand and clean, stain if you'd like, wash coat with shellac to seal the color in (one part shellac, two or three parts denatured alcohol). Apply and remove filler as required.  When dry, and give it at least three days to cure, seal with shellac. You can use the shellac as a final finish or go ahead and varnish over it.

   Another way is to use a thin varnish like minwax antique oil or watco etc and apply a generous amount to the surface and wet sand it in. The oil will create a slurry that will fill the pores to a degree. Be sure and wipe it down repeatedly after you finish as the oil will "weep" out of the pores for quite a while. Be sure to do this schedule in sections. You arms will get a good workout. Seal with shellac, sand, and you can then use a gel stain over the top as a glaze to augment the color as you see fit.

   The pores will tend to be a little darker over time with the oil and sanding.

   Be sure you make samples!

   Just to throw one more twist at you; when filling pores with a golden brown stained surface; tint you filler white and then use some raw sienna to yellow it slightly. This is a variation of a "limed" finish. It is a very attractive look in the proper setting. Try a sample to see for yourself.

   Keep me posted on what you do.

   Peter

    

    

    

    

1. 
   dogbert | Dec 31, 2007 09:51pm | #2

   Peter,

   I am very grateful for your response to my questions about finishing elm. You have removed a lot of doubt and indecision from my project. I am in the tentive stage of wood finishing, having previously used prepared stains and polyurethane from a can and hoped for the best. I have never ruined a project this way, but usually do not achieve the professional result I would like. I especially appreciate that you have offered alternatives. These offer a good learning opportunity for future projects as well as this on. I will let you know how it works out.

   Best Regards,

   Lew 

1. 
   peter28 | Jan 02, 2008 04:51pm | #3

   Lew,

   Take a little time and read about the steps I have outlined. You can usually find finishing books at the library.

   Look for the names Flexnor and Jewitt. The more you know before you start the better off you'll be. You know that old saying about how a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

   If there is a woodworking school in your area you might consider a basic finishing course. It can shorten your learning curve dramatically.

   Good luck.

   Peter