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I need some help with a finishing problem that I’ve created. I built a bookcase using panels that I veneered with quarter-sawn white oak. For some reason, all of the veneer developed several cracks (up to 1/16″ wide) during the glue-up process. I debated leaving the cracks as they were, or trying to fill them after finishing or filling them before finishing. You guessed it. I made the mistake of filling the cracks with Plastic Wood before finishing. And yes, for about one inch on each side of the cracks the plastic wood filled the pores of the white oak. So when I applied the finish (orange shellac), you can see light patches and stripes where the cracks and filled pores are.
I’m pessimistic about finding a solution. I can strip off the shellac with alcohol and try to strip the Plastic Wood with their solvent (or standard paint stripper), but I’m afraid that the pores will still be filled with plastic wood and shellac even after the majority of the shellac and Plastic Wood are removed. Although, perhaps I could then try to fill all of the pores with Plastic Wood or something similar to match the lighter tone of the Plastic Wood.
I’ve considered veneering over the veneer that is most visible, although I doubt that I could do that precisely enough or make that work with the design. If there is a staining process that might even out the finish let me know. In short, Help!
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Steve,
Bummer! Let's get to the core of the problem: what did you use for the ground and what type of glue did you use? Good chance we can help you to save your project. The answers lie in those two simple questions. (Gee, is there an echo in here?)
Dano
*Dano,The ground is MDF, and the glue is water based contact cement (the root of the problem). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!Steve
*Steve,You are on a roll. Correcto-mundo! Take an old steam iron on full steam and try to steam the veneer off starting at a corner to see how much time it takes to break down the glue. Try not to scorch the veneer. Use a dull broad blade putty knife 3-5" wide (round off the corners) to gently lift the veneer from the ground as you work. Gotta be patient if you want to have some kind of chance in saving the veneer too. Without actually seeing the damage makes it impossible to tell if the veneer can be re applied, that would be your call. If you can use another piece with it, make the attempt to save the veneer. When you are finished, the veneer will want to roll up like a cheap window shade. Gently roll it out flat, curved side down on a flat surface and weight down the corners.The MDF ground will more than likely need to be re surfaced so it is smooth, fill any gouges that might be left behind and use your wood filler and sand 'em flat. If you feel you must use this water based glue, the MDF will need to be sealed. You can use any standard sealer, the number of coats again is your call, not all MDF is the same. I wouldn't go less than two, as the MDF will suck up the sealer like a Hoover. Other wise, use yellow glue. Keep the iron fired up as it could come in handy in re-applying the veneer. Don't let any yahoo try to talk you into using contact glue. You will end up having a "do over" on your hands. Good luck.Dano
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