I’m about to finish a maple corner cupboard and need some advice on the generally accepted technique. I’ll finish the outside with a dye stain, followed by a light coat of shellac to seal it. Then add a glaze to darken and age it, followed by a varnish finish. My question is: How was the inside of period pieces normally finished? The bottom section has solid doors and the top section divided lite glass doors. Do I finish the inside of both sections the same as the outside? Does the inside of both sections have to be prepared to the same degree and have to be the same stain? Should the top receive a finish?
Really appreciate any and all advice.
Richard
Replies
oldtimer,
Use what you like or nothing at all. I have worked on many period pieces and many have a painted interior. Some have a glaze, but those were mostly English pieces. But quite a few had no finish at all unless the doors were glazed. Even with glass doors quite a few were still unfinished.
Milk paint is nice, plus you can use wax to give it a little more stain resistance. You could stain it as well like the outside. Or just shellac the inside.
There really is no right or wrong way to do what you ask. Just a personal perference.
What style is the piece?
J.P.
JP:
I appreciate the advice. I feel more relaxed about finishing the piece now. Just seemed to be a loose end I was unable to take care of. Not as critical as I thought.
The piece is a country corner cupboard similar to one I saw in an Eldred Wheeler catalog. I've just made the top a bit narrower to fit in my dining room.
One last question to a professional: What extent does sandpaper play in preparing your pieces? Do you go all the way with planes and scrapers or do you still finish up with sandpaper? I'm led to believe 18th century craftsmen didn't have sandpaper to use and that scrapers were used to complete the final prep for finishing. Planes and scrapers produced a much clearer surface and any minor irregularities left in the surface were accepted as part of the hand produced art. I do enjoy using the scrapers - much more relaxing and feels better.
Thanks again for coming to my aid.
Richard
Richard,If you have not used milk paint you should give it a try. I really like the selection of colors and you can mix up about any variation you can think of. It is easy to work with and non-toxic when dry. Just an idea.As for sanding, everything gets sanded. Every surface also gets handplaned as well since my tools are not that great and planing removes the machine marks nicely. I also use quite a bit of water based dye so I generally wet the wood and sand with 180 then re-wet and sand with 220.Rarely will I go with paper more coarse then 180. I usually plane then scrape then sand. I use a foam backed sanding block so that the slight undulations of the surface are left in tact.While it is true that some period craftsmen would only leave a surface from the tool many used reeds and sharkskin to smooth and burnish the finished surface. I use hand tools mostly for their efficiency and sanding is my reality with producing work that is for sale to the public. I don't consider tearout as acceptable in production of my work. I am fine with the surface irregularities and subtle variations that come from using hand tools. They offer a unique view into a piece that is handmade. However chips, dings, machine marks, sanding scratches, tearout etc., things like that, which are avoidable, are to be remedied. Well, at least that is my opinion.I'm rambling so I will leave it at that.Please post a photo of your piece when it is finished. J.P.http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
JP:
Thanks again for the insight to the preparation of fine pieces of period furniture. The Bombe chest on your website is exquisite. How many hours of work were required?
I don't consider the information you passed on to me as rambling. I'm not a professional and have a great deal to learn but love the process of making fine period furniture. I admire anyone who has the skills and patience to produce such pieces - anyone who is uncomprimising in the quality of work they do. And there is something special about leaving behind a work of art that will last. Any insights I can get from artisans such as your self that help me to understand the techniques and processes required to produce fine furniture is welcome - no matter how inconsequential it may seem to you. It shows a very special attitude and philosophy.
My greatest shortcoming - and may be for many others is the preparation prior to finishing. Although I smooth and sand, somehow I never seem to remove all scratches and am disappointed when the stain shows my shortcoming. How do you manage to completely remove all machine and sanding marks - and know they're removed - prior to staining? How far do you go in preparation and finishing prior to assembly. If you're going to install dowels don't you have to assemble first? Do things have to fit precise before glue up? Aren't there always adjustments and some sanding necessary after glue up? If you've already stained pieces then any sanding or scraping after glue up will alter the wood color. I keep reading about staining and finishing prior to glue up but don't see how it can be done without some sanding necessary afterwards. Maybe I'm just not precise enough?
I'm starting to ramble. I will post a picture when I'm done.
Thanks again,
Richard
Richard,I had about 450 hours in the bombe. About 85-90% of the construction was done with hand tools. A whole lot of shaping and fitting.As for the surface prep. I plane away any machine marks. Then remove any tearout with a cabinet scraper and card scrapers. Then sanding.It could be that you are not removing the prior scratches with the next higher grit. Sometimes if you use some mineral spirits and dampen the surface you can take a work light and get some low angle light raking across the surface. This will help you see if you are removing the sanding scratches.If you work up through grits say, 150-180 -220, you should have pretty good success. However some harder woods like maple can be a bit tough to sand. I use a random orbit sander sometimes if the hand sanding doesn't work too well. Plus if you raise the grain with water you can get a really fine surface.As for pre-finishing. I will do this with panels before gluing up stiles and rails, but I generally don't do alot of pre-finishing. Every part is dry fit before glue up then put together. I use cheap chip brushes and tooth brushes and water to remove any squeeze out. I try to sand all parts before assembly, then once the piece is together, give it one final sanding before finishing. Sometimes it is not really possible to finish before assembly, since it may be necessary to leave some excess wood on some pieces to aid in clamping.I could see how pre finishing may help in some instances, and be quite beneficial. But at times the ability to clamp a piece and fit/shape final pieces together after gluing will prevent this from happening.I guess the most important part about the whole process is to be as thorough as possible so that you don't have to repeat a previous step. No need to be fanatical but just recognizing when your work is good enough and move on. Also try not to mess with things when their finished to make it just a little better/nicer. Better is the enemy of good.J.P.http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
I line all my drawers in Italian leather.. Just some white glue,,,
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