Hi All…
New to the site, but very much appreciate all of the research I’ve been able to conduct through browsing this forum!
I am refinishing a section of old maple bowling alley and plan to turn it into a bar top – see attached. I had a contractor cut the 10′ x 42″ piece to the size I need (6′ x 30″), sand the top, and place a walnut edge on it. I am now looking to finish it up.
I don’t like the contrast with the edge currently, so my plan (subject to your input!!) is to put at least one coat of Danish Oil on the edge in order to darken it up and get it to pop a bit more. Once that’s done, I am planning to apply an epoxy to the entire top. I also looked at shellack and poly, but from all of my reading it seems that epoxy is the winner, mostly due to it’s durability. I also finished my kitchen counter with epoxy and it’s still in pretty great shape after 10+ years.
My questions:
1. There are a few shiny spots (finish) left on the maple surface – see picture #2. I can try to sand them, but I’m afraid I may miss a spot or two, and I also want to be careful not to gouge the surface. Any thoughts on how to do a final prep of this surface? Will the epoxy effectively cover the remaining areas of old finish? Should I put a sealer coat down before the epoxy?
2. Do you agree that epoxy my best bet, given the use as bar/kitchen table?
3. Do you recommend any specific epoxy for use around food?
4. Beyond question #1, is there anything else I should consider doing to prep either the maple or the walnut for epoxy?
Also – I should mention that I plan to cut a 3/4″ piece of plywood to put under the entire top to keep the maple strips from sagging, since I removed the metal supports. This wasn’t part of my plan, but I saw it mentioned a few times in this forum so thanks again!
THANK YOU for any help!
James
Replies
Nice top! (especially with the arrows in it), but I fear for your mitered corners... 30" of maple is gonna move seasonally.
I am not a fan of epoxy on solid wood where movement is probable. Sand or scrape to bare wood and test in the crevices for mineral oil from its past life. Bowling lanes are treated with oil to save the surface and add to the game. I would work newsprint paper or cereal box cardboard (strip the glossy surface) into the biggest crevises and leave it for a few days. If you strike oil you might be stuck with an oil finish.
The history is the charm is the beauty is the attraction. Don't worry about perfecting the surface.
Thanks so much for this reply! I have a couple of follow up questions, if you don't mind!
1. When you say that 30" of maple will move seasonally and the mitered corners are a problem - will putting 1/2" or 3/4" plywood on the bottom of the top help stop this movement? Is there anything I can do at this point to help avoid this, other than redoing the trim?
2. From everything I've read, it seems that I REALLY don't want an oil finish. This will be the main "kitchen table," so I need something highly durable - heat, liquids, scratching, etc. It seems that the oil finishes are the least durable. If I have to go this route, do you have any suggestions for a durable oil finish?
Thanks again!!
Not a fan of epoxy, my bar top is epoxy and will need refreshing. Epoxy is soft, marks easily with heat, any good varnish, oil or water based will outlast it.
A lot of contaminants in that old bowling alley lumber.
What is the original finish? I would use that over a manufacturers recommended sealer and perhaps save myself some grief.
Maybe Vesting's UV cure hard-wax oil.
Seems to fit all your listed needs.