I built a workbench, and have the bottom cabinets (quartersawn oak) finished in oil/poly. For the top (all maple), I have been fretting over whether to use spar varnish-as in the article in Fine woodworking from a year or two ago, or use shellac. I love the look of buttonlac, but the want toughness of the spar- can I combine? I would like to have it look pretty, but it is there to work- i would prefer a pickup to a porsche.
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Replies
PURSWELL,
I used shellac on my bench top which is maple as well. I did not rub it out either. I do not like a slick surface to work off of and the shellac offers enough protection for my liking. I use my bench every day and am not concerned with it looking pretty for years to come. Try the shellac, and if you don't like it then you can very easily varnish over top, However it is much more difficult to remove the varnish once it is applied if you don't like the finish. I used a thinned 2 pound cut followed by a full strength 2 pound cut on both sides.
J.P.
I use an oil varnish mix on my benchtop. It is esily renewable. In fact, when I am finishing something, if my benchtop looks a bit rugged, I just take a quick scraper to it, and rag on a light coat. By morning, dry and fine. I bet I do this at least once a month, just bye the bye. My bench is always getting different colors, etc., on it becasue I use it for finishing, if I am not spraying.
Alan
http://www.alanturnerfurnituremaker.com
Sounds like a decent compromise instead of using an all varnish finish. I guess I use shellac because I always have some around.
J.P.
Thank You- Shellac it is- I know spar is for outdoor/marine, and somewhat soft. My thought was it would absorb some dings and dents instead of letting the project get the small marks, the article made spar varnish look easy and clean, so I kept thinking about it.
thanks to all-
Scott
Your welcome. Good luck and be safe.
J.P.
I'm with Alan. Use an oil/varnish which adds some protection but is easily repaired or renewed. Your benchtop will get lots of dings and gunk. An oil/varnish is easy to renew.
I would stay away from "spar" varnish. Spar varnish is designed to be very soft and flexible to maintain adherence on wooden sail boat spars (masts and booms). It it not a good finish for applications that will have abasion or pounding. It's too soft. If it's going to be sat on, eaten at, pounded on, etc., spar varnish is a poor choice.
The hardest, most durabe varnish are those designated for interior (only) use. These contain the most resins and cure the hardest.
I use an oil/varnish mixture discussed earlier, but I think shellac would be fine too -- since it so easy to recoat.
Once or twice a year, I apply a thin coat of paste wax -- since glue or any other crud that might find its way to the bench top flicks right off with a scraper.
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