Novice question here. I’m new to finishing wood. Well, wood working in general. 🙂 I have a glued up 12′ maple counter I’m finishing as part of a built-in bookcase. I’ve been adding quite a few layers of water-based semi-gloss poly for the last couple weeks, sanding down every few layers. I’ve wanted to experiment with rottenstone for a while. Would it work for this? I’ve heard poly stays “soft”, dries in layers, and won’t rub out to a nice finish. Despite all my sanding and careful application, the surface still feels slightly “rough” to the touch, though it looks great. Would it work to sand up through 2000 grit, then move on to rottenstone for this? Or would I be better off sanding it down, and putting a final coat of something else (lacquer? shellac?).
For the future, can anyone recommend a good book on finishing?
Thanks,
-Sean
Replies
Bob Flexner wrote an awesome book on finishing that covers just about everything and anything. It was the first book on finishing that I read and also the last. I can't recommend it enough.
Birds
The Flexner book spoken of above is Understanding Wood Finishing. Probably the most-recommended comprehensive book that is cited here at Knots. Me, I need colored pictures and hand-holding, so for now I use Jeff Jewitt's books, primarily Great Wood Finishes. He also wrote Taunton's Complte Illustrated Guide to Finishing.
Another author I really like is Michael Dresdner, although I don't currently have any of his books.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Thanks, I'll have to check those two authors out before my next project.Decided to go ahead and try the rottenstone today. Figured the worst that could happen, I'd have to put a few more coats of poly back on and try again.Came out very nice. Not quite as shiny as I expected, but for this project, that was a good thing. Came out as a semi-gloss, very smooth finish. Feels like glass to my fingers.I started with 300 grit sandpaper wet and worked my way up through 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000. Wiped it down well between each grit to make sure none of the previous grit was left behind. Wasn't exactly sure how to use the rottenstone, so I mixed it into a thin paste with water and slathered it on. Worked it over the flat top with a cork block I had lying around, then did the bullnosed front edge with my fingers. If I were to do it again, I'd try with a thick cloth. As it is, I don't think I have any fingerprints after today. It made a big wet mess, but wiped off with a single swipe of a wet sponge.Only problem I had was I somehow managed to cut to bare wood in one spot for about one square inch. How it happened with ten coats on there, I'm not sure. Either I was sloppy and kept missing the one spot (possible, it was at one end, and after 12 ft, I might have started getting impatient and used thinner coats) or going through all those grits ground off more than I expected. Grain might have raised more there, too, so when I sanded it all smooth, that part got cut more than the surrounding area. I'll patch it up with a few layers wiped on and smooth it out tonight and tomorrow. At least if I mess it up, it should be covered up by books. :-)Nice learning experience. One type of finish down, several dozen (hundred?) to go. Bookstore, here I come.Now, if that darn cat hasn't walked over the freshly painted shelves (again) leaving sawdust pawprints all over them, I should have them installed by the end of the week. Fun.Thanks,
-Sean
Sounds like you've achieved what you were hoping for.
You mention that your finish is water based. Note that the finish has to have really, really cured to achieve the best results with any of the polishing techniques. I think that water based finishes are allowed a month to cure before the final polishing with rottenstone or the more available automotive polishing compound.
Water based finishes don't completely coalesce the successive layers, so you need to be careful that you don't polish through the final layer. This leads to a mess and requires a new final coat. The books mentioned cover this topic in better detail.
Just a note - If you want a glossier finish you can use light mineral oil instead of water in the rubbing. And as it was mentioned, the finish has to be really dry before you rub it down with anything.
DR
Thanks.I think that was one of my problems (other than using water poly to begin with) - I didn't wait long enough, and I started with too aggressive a sandpaper in the final steps.After it was all dry, I looked it over again. Even though it's still smoother than I could believe, there are faint, I think they're called witness marks? Places where you can see the separate layers of poly, where one layer is rubbed through, leaving faint circles across the surface. Since I have the time, and it's not that difficult, I decided to add another few layers of finish and try again.The Jewitt book I bought suggests acrylic lacquer might be a good choice - due to it's clear color and resistance to yellowing (several feet of this counter will be right under a six foot south-east facing window). Any problems putting this over the poly that's already there? This time around, I'll leave it for a month or so before continuing. But before even doing that much, read some more of the book. :-)Thanks,
-Sean
Maine,
Glad this worked out well for you.
I cheat and use things you don't really see in the woodworking books, when rubbing out.
I only sand the first seal coat, using an orbital sander up to 250. No sanding on the final coat.
The rubbing out process then starts and a 36 x 72 table top takes me at most 1 1/2 hours. I use a buffer at 1800 rpm with different foam pads, to suit the final amount of sheen and I use 3M compounds accordingly. If you go to the 3M site, or phone them, provided you get a service tech who knows more than just automotive, there are some real short cuts open to you.
Edited 6/3/2005 1:00 pm ET by Jellyrug
I only sand the first seal coat, using an orbital sander up to 250. No sanding on the final coat.
I would have to observe that if you sand with a mechanical sander you are probably sanding your seal coat off.Gretchen
"I would have to observe that if you sand with a mechanical sander you are probably sanding your seal coat off."
Depends on the type of sealer used, but as long as those little fibers don't stand up again, who cares......
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