Replies

1. 
   Westchester | Jun 23, 2003 12:47am | #1

   Since you're finishing prior to installation -  consider lacquer, it's easily repairable if you abrade a surface.  You will need spray equipment and ventilation, be careful of this material, it is flammable but in my view easy to use.

   Regards,

   SA

2. 
   Kevin | Jun 23, 2003 05:18am | #2

   Hmmmm.... well, "richness" and "depth" are somewhat open to interpretation and are therefore somewhat subjective terms.

   In general terms "depth" is a function of gloss and film build. Which is to say that a higher gloss will look "deeper" than a low gloss finish will. Putting several coats of finish on will typically enhance this perception.

   I'm going to go out on a limb and assume that by "richness" you are envisioning a brownish-red type of color. There are any number of ways to tackle putting such a finish on your Cherry. Relying mostly on dyes will give you much greater clarity than relying mostly on pigments for color. Whether clarity is what you want or even all that important to you is something that only you can decide.

   Perhaps visiting several furniture showrooms might help you narrow down what you want to do. When you find something that you like, take the time to examine it and try to identify why you like it. Look at the sheen of the finish, the clarity or lack thereof of the color, etc.

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   Streetman | Jun 23, 2003 08:30am | #3

   Thanks, Kevin, for the advice.  Any opinions on type of finish, given the large amount of area to be covered?

                                                      Streetman

1. 
   Kevin | Jun 23, 2003 08:44pm | #4

   Well... again, that depends on what your criteria is. As SA mentioned, regular nitrocellulose lacquer is exceptionally easy to repair and is exceptionally easy to apply.  With a few tricks of the trade... nitro lacquer is even easier to repair and apply in certain conditions. However, in general, the easier a finish is to repair, the less durable it is. The most durable finishes, such as catalyzed polyurethane and catalyzed alkyd varnishes, are sometimes very difficult to repair in a way that makes the repair blend in with it's surroundings. With nitro lacquer on the other hand... if done right, not even you will know where the repair is without examinging it very closely, and even then it'd be more the fact that you know where the ding was at that will allow you to find the repair spot later. Pre-catalyzed lacquer is a happy medium in that it is mostly nitro lacquer and therefore relatively easy to repair and apply with most of the same tricks that one can use with regular nitro lacquer, while offering the additional durability of a catalyzed finish. It's not as durable as a catalyzed varnish... but, it's more durable than straight nitro lacquer. All of the above finishes require spray equipment to apply, of course. If you don't have spray equipment and still want an easy to apply and easily repaired finish... go with shellac. For more durable finishes you'd probably want to go with a non-catalyzed poly.

   Regards,

   Kevin

1. 
   Streetman | Jun 23, 2003 09:25pm | #5

   Again, many thanks for the help.  Do you know where I could get more info on pre-catalyzed lacquer--on application techniques and the like?

                                                         Streetman

1. 
   Kevin | Jun 23, 2003 11:06pm | #6

   If you buy a national brand, such as Sherwin Williams or M.L. Campbell, the retail store should be able to supply you with the appropriate spec-sheet that will list dry times, reduction rates and the like... including air and fluid pressure settings for spray equipment most of the time too. Even regional brands like Rodda will be able to supply the same type of spec-sheets from their retail outlets if you ask. Spec-sheets are a great resource that I rely on heavily when working with a new brand or a new product from a given manufactorer that I haven't used before.

   As for application techniques... Much depends on your particular needs and situation. How much spraying have you done? What type of equipment do you intend to use to apply the finish? Will you be finishing in a garage or in a spray booth? What's the relative humidity and average temperature where you live?

   If you can get ahold of the current Sherwin Williams Chemical Coatings / Finishing Systems Guide it will give you far more information than you probably even want. Everything from how to estimate material needs to specialized application techniques to specs-sheets to solvent guides to trouble-shooting lists and everything inbetween. Even if you don't end up using Sherwin Williams products, the guide is an excellent resource and reference point. The most current one is the 2000-2001 edition according to my sources at S/W.

   Regards,

   Kevin

2. 
   Westchester | Jun 24, 2003 02:02am | #7

   If you have spray equipment - that's the easiest way to go.   However if you don't it's expensive to set up and takes  time to learn, certainly you don't want to practice spraying on your  finished project.  Maybe consider a brushing varnish.  With a little practice it's tremendously less expense  and you can push out a quality finish.

3. 
   Streetman | Jun 24, 2003 05:27am | #8

   Thanks again for the info.  I have an HVLP sprayer and a pancake compressor and have some experience using it (and other sprayers) and will set up an informal cardboard spray booth in the garage.  I live in So. Calif. about 10 miles from the ocean, so the weather's relatively dry and temperate.  I'll follow up the Sherwin-Williams lead and see what makes the most sense once I talk with them.   Again, thanks to you and SA for the help.

                                                      Streetman

4. 
   Kevin | Jun 24, 2003 07:28am | #9

   I wonder if you'll be able to get any kind of lacquer in So.Cal. You guys have some pretty damn stringent solvent restrictions. The best tricks that I know of to use with lacquer involve some solvents that you might not be able to get down there.

   Regards,

   Kevin