Replies

1. 
   Gretchen | Dec 17, 2006 05:16am | #1

   Your formula is going to make a VERY long oil varnish of what is already a fairly long oil varnish (spar).  You are basically making a Watco style finish which will be very soft.  I don't think I understand why the finish would crack because of fir being soft underneath it--but I wouldn't use poly on it anyway. A nice wipe on of non-poly varnish would give a lovely in the wood finish.

   You need to do  some test boards to see what finish you want. If you do a wipe on finish you might be able to eat on it Christmas--but it won't be cured and you'll run a big risk of really mucking it up!!

   All finishes are "food safe" once cured. And I don't really eat off of my dining room table top anyway. You 'll be fine with whatever you decide on.

   As for the "stain", have you wiped the piece down with mineral spirits--or turp, if you're going to use it--to see what the color will be with just a clear finish? you might not need a stain.

   Gretchen
1. 
   whatthejeez | Dec 17, 2006 05:50am | #2

   Thanks for responding.

   I don't understand what you mean by "long"...does this mean it takes a long time to cure?

    

   As for the stain, I'm trying to match existing pieces in the house and have tested different colors and made a decision.

    

   So, would 100% spar varnish be a "non-poly"varnish?

    

   I'd still like to know about the sap...

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 17, 2006 05:51am | #3

   The best solution for pitch pockets in fir is to leave them in the scrap bin.  This is particularly true if the fir was marketed as construction lumber rather than as furniture lumber.  The difference is that for construction purposes it is unlikely to have been kiln dried below 19% moisture content.  While indoor storage can dry the wood to a more appropriate moisture content, the more vigorous kiln drying that brings furniture lumber down to 7% or 8%, may well  "set" the resin so it doesn't bleed over time.  But this may not have happened with construction lumber.  You can try to seal in the pitch with shellac, which will do better at this than an oil based varnish, but it is best just to avoid this potential problem.  

   Fir isn't a very good furniture wood in the first place.  It doesn't take stain very well, since the early and late woods are quite different in terms of hardness and density giving a propect of stain coming out "striped" or blotchy.  I would use dye rather than stain. 

   In my mind, oil/varnish mixes as proposed are best used on hardwoods to achieve an "in the wood" finish that doesn't build a film on the surface.  I would use a varnish on the fir, but as Gretchen said a tradtional resin varnish over shellac will look better than polyurethane. Except for the very fast drying "short oil" varnishes I wouldn't worry about the varnish cracking over fir.     

3. 
   Omah | Dec 17, 2006 06:32am | #4

   Just what kind of results are you anticipating. If you would like a french polish look, that would be a chalanging project esp.with const. grade fir. However if you prefer a rustic look "primative chic" with flaws and some antiquity we could probably do something befoe christmas maybe , time's a tickin away.

1. 
   whatthejeez | Dec 17, 2006 07:37pm | #5

   Thanks to everyone for responding again.

   The "primitive chic" look is definitely what we're after here. The other pieces in the house are similar to that.  

   I aquired the lumber for free as 8 X 8 posts. I now know why that part of the tree was made into posts...

   I should mention (if it isn't obvious already) that i'm a neophyte, and this project is my first since high school (a long time ago...) But I've already planed the tabletop boards, and am determined to soldier on. If the table turns out bad, I'll keep the base and buy better material to replace the top...and I'll have had some practice!

   I don't have a spray rig, so I'm looking for a brush/wipe on finish that will happen AFTER stain has been applied to darken to the correct hue to match the rest of the furniture.

   Thanks again to all for your help!

    

1. 
   Rich14 | Dec 17, 2006 09:14pm | #6

   jeez,The only 2 finishes you could use by Christmas are lacquer or shellac. Use shellac.Get Zinser's Seal Coat (a dewaxed, blonde shellac 2 lb cut) if you think you want to eventually use a final finish of any type of varnish (oil based, water-borne, etc).Use any other shellac (amber which usually means it also has wax) if you want to eventually finish with a traditional varnish (oil-based) .Either type of shellac could also be the final finish and will serve you well for decades and could easily be touched up as need requires.Day 1 - final sand to 180-220 grit. Apply 2 lb cut or thin it with equal volume of denatured alcohol and apply. Work quickly, don't brush back and forth, just flow the shellac on. Use this technique for the whole job. Let dry 1-2 hrs. Apply second coat of either strength. Let dry 1-2 hours, apply 2 lb cut, let dry over night.Day 2. Sand with 220-320 grit on a felt or rubber sanding block, lightly to remove the raised grain and dust nibs. Don't be too aggressive, but get the surface even and smooth. You will not be able to abrade all the shiny "valleys" but you will be able to level all the tops of the "hills" of finish. Apply 2 lb cut and let dry 1-2 hours. Apply 2nd coat, let dry 2 hours, apply 3rd coat.Day 3. Abrade with 320 grit. The surface should be smooth and even. Very few shiny valleys. Apply 3 coats of 2 lb cut 2 hours apart.Last day, abrade with 320 grit. The surface should be evenly smooth and matte all over. Rub with 400-600 wet-or-dry abrasive paper using mineral spirits as a lubricant. Wipe dry occasionally, to see your progress. When completely smooth at that grit, go to 4-0 steel wool using mineral spirits. You'll have a soft, glowing semi-matte surface. Let it completely dry for several days before using. You may never have to do a thing to the finish, or you may add a varnish top coat, or just freshen up the shellac once in a while,Rich

2. 
   Omah | Dec 17, 2006 10:21pm | #7

   OK this is what I would do in your situation, for a primative chic finish. Cut out the pitch pocket and put in rectangular patch 14" thick, as long and wide as you need, [cut patch piece first, cover defect, scribe outline, chop releiveing cuts with chisel, rout out waste, glue in patch]. slightly distress top, as you like, be creative, don't go ape, don't wimp out. sand down, start with 150, go to 220. rinse with solution of water with high ph additive [lye or tsp or bleach. sponge dry. when dry, stain with water base dye [burnt umber] mixed with a little durhams rock hard putty. Mix up a thin batch, apply liberal coat with brush, damp sponge off excess. When dry, color should come out light brown or tan. Let dry then wax with Briwax dark brown for a really dark color. Maybe too dark? Cut with a little light brown , tudor brown adds a nice redish glow. Antique pine is nice too. Go online and order up wax from Maine. Its the cheapest way to get it, but it takes about a week, so order it now. After about 10 hours rub out wax with a course cloth, should come out decent but additional apllication of wax will make it more better. I also add extra tolulene to the wax when i get it. Wear a resperator in a well vented room or you will get a wicked buzz.