hello all!
I just got some red cedar to build a table for the deck. Smells great. I’ve never worked cedar yet. I’ve heard of the toxicity and will use a mask.
As for the finish, is there one in particular that works better for the outdoors or should I simply use an outdoor varnish like SPAR. Or would that be overkill? What about an oil finish? Or isn’t oil resistant enough for the outdoors. The table will probably spend the winter under the deck (covered).
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Dano
Replies
Got a 20 year-old cedar deck that's still in good shape. I just power-wash once a year and apply Thompsons Water Seal (oil-based). The sun will eventually bleach it silver, and the water-seal will darken it.
Thanks for the reply.
Do you mean if I do nothing, the sun will bleach it silver but if I apply Thompson's it will get darker? Or, even with Thompson's, the cedar will turn silver during the year until I apply another coat the following year?
Dano
Down here in Texas we have a lot of hot sun. In my experience, the water seal will tmporarily darken the cedar from it's sun-bleached silver. When you power wash it will remove the silver and the crud on the surface, returning it to it's original color. After the application of water-seal (one coat), it will have the attractive appearance of the natural cedar, until the bleaching process is completed again, which in my case, takes about a month. The water seal, IMHO, keeps the surface conditioned to avoid splitting and prevents insects, such as carpenter ants, from eating it.
dano
I'm not an expert, but in my experience, no finish is protective enough to keep wood color and texture outdoors, I used spar varnish on an ash bench (picture attached) thinking I was going to get UV protection. Spar varnish may have some UV protection if you renew it every couple of months, but it is a very soft finish, and not water resistant. As you can see in the picture, not only did moisture penetrate quickly, but it pretty much all peeled off after about 6 months. Certainly any oil finish will not last long.
For outdoor wood I would not use any finish and let it grey naturally, opaque deck stain, or at least a deck-type finish.
dano: I concur with stanthoman. We use a lot of red cedar out here in the northwest and I've seen people try everything under the sun to preserve the new look on outdoor wood aplications. It can't be done. Let it weather naturally and it will turn an attractive silver color. If you are able to keep it relatively dry you don't even need things like Thompsons water seal. Look at Japanese houses 200 years old that use cedar as siding. Under the eaves it still retains it stability but you probably can't keep a table dry like that. Also cedar has a pleasant smell and I wouldn't worry about toxicity. Out here its not considered hazardous and local carpenters etc do not wear masks etc when working with cedar. Enjoy the smell. Lee
"Look at Japanese houses 200 years old that use cedar as siding. Under the eaves it still retains it stability"
Lee,
I completely agree with you that Japanese craftmanship is fascinating. The longevity of traditional Japanese structures is due at least as much to extraordinary craftsmanship as it is to the materials. In traditional temple building, timber frame components are planed using frighteningly-sharp tools that produce a surface upon which water will bead up. Then they "gift wrap" their planed surfaces to protect them throughout the construction process, removing the paper wrappings only when construction is complete.
For an outdoor project that has a comparatively rougher surface and is more vulnerable to the elements, I like to use Penofin. It helps the wood resist moisture and requires a lot less effort to maintain than a surface film like spar varnish. True, it will not maintain the original appearance of fresh-sawn cedar, but it can be helpful in slowing the effects of humidity and can resist the occasional spilled soft drink.
Penofin is available tinted, if that's desirable.-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
All the problems listed for a film finish (varnish or poly) are true, but also consider that cedar aroma contains a chemical that acts like paint remover on a film finish. Therefore I second the recommendation that you just use Thompson's water seal, or other protection, but no finish.
________________________
Charlie Plesums Austin, Texas
http://www.plesums.com/wood
I have a patio set made out of cedar on which I originally tried spar - it didn't work at all. The south Texas sun had the spar peeling inside a month. Tried several other finishes without success. What I use now is Olympic Deck Stain / Sealer. First appplication I sanded to bare wood and applied two coats (I was going for a redwood look - and got it). Now, once a year all I do is apply a deck cleaner solution and pressure wash it, let it dry and apply a fresh coat of stain / sealer. Looks great. Water (and anything else) just beads up and falls off. Still has the look and feel of fresh wood. I used the same stuff on a set I built for my folks last year and will use it on a patio dining set I'm doing this year - it's all I'll use for outdoor projects now.
You have to work quickly when applying it to keep a wet edge as the cedar soaks the suff up like a sponge and it dries very quick. Obviously, no sanding between coats as the stuff soaks into the wood and does not form a film finish.
Rick
Rome wasn't built in a day, take your time and do it right the first time.
Hello there.
Thank you all very much. The responses were very welcomed. They all seem good. Sounds like the sun beats everything. I believe I will try a little test. I will cut a small piece of board for each suggestion and try it out for a while. Then i will choose the one that suits my needs. That exercise will educate me and anything I choose can be applied whenever.
So, once again, thank you. I'll post a picture of it when it's done.
Dano
Don't finish it. The silver look of weathered cedar is beautiful ...plus you never have to maintain it.
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