I’ll preface this by saying I’m definitely a novice. I’m nearing the end of my first attempt at making a real piece of furniture. My work since picking up woodworking has been devoted to small and simple shop and outdoor projects. I’m making a coffee table out of red oak. After sanding and dry assembly I noticed some of the stock used varies slightly in color. It’s particularly noticeable on the top. Likely could have been avoided by paying more attention to which boards I used in the beginning.
I’ve been an avid reader of FWW for the last two years. There seem to be articles (if not entire issues) devoted to finishing in each issue. My head is spinning a bit trying to pick the right way to go. Does anyone have any suggestions for a finish that will help to blend the color variation without darkening the piece too much. I’d like to preserve as much of the natural color as possible. Any suggestions either through direct experience or reference to a specific FWW article (within the last two years, if possible) would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Drew
Replies
You have hit on an important point. The first step in finishing is choosing the materials.
I would give up on the goal of keeping the color totally natural, and choose a medium toned dye to pull the colors together. After the dye, I would give a light coat of shellac--about 1 lb. cut. Then I would use a pigment only stain, also in a color similar to the dye. This will mostly lodge in the pores and give them an even color. I know this sounds complicated, but though there are several steps, each is easy in itself, and is more likely to give a satisfactory job than a one step process. There are always trade-offs and a bit darker color--still a long way from dark--is likely to be one you will be happy with in the end.
Important. Make some tests on scrap wood from the project--both the lighter and darker--and see if you are getting the look you want. Be sure to prepare the surface the same, and to take the finishing process through at least the first top coat. MUCH better to experiment on scrap than on the project itself.
You might want to purchase a finishing book to get a systematic view of finishing in addition to the specific topics covered in the magazine.
Hi akg1776,
When my daugher and son-in-law moved into their house, SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) and I gave them a set of six red oak chairs which we had bought at an unfinished furniture store. (blasphemy, heresy) SWMBO said that it would take me two years to make them, and we needed them in one month. When I told her that I would make myself and work quickly, she asked if I wanted to pay for the ready-made chairs with my credit card or hers (not that it makes much difference). SWMBO can be subtle.
To finish these chairs, I used a method of finishing that I had used hundreds of times over three decades - Minwax stain-sealer followed by Minwax Polyurathane. BAD MISTAKE! I learned about the problem of "Bleedback" which is caused by the unique cellular structure of red oak. My only point in this response to you is that I recommend that you avoid the mistake that I made. Make a different one. I put the Minwax stain-sealer on liberally (as directed and as I always had) and wiped off the excess in 15 minutes, and then wiped it off again to make sure that it was really off. The reason is that if you don't get all of that sealer-stain off, and then you put the polyurathane on, you get nasty white spots.
Well, the next day there were tiny puddles on various part of the chair. I wiped them down again. Same thing went on for two weeks! By then there were only a few pinhead-size puddles each day. I was disappointed. What did I do wrong? I called Minwax and found out about "Bleedback" which happens with red oak. The cellular structure of red oak is like drinking straws, and they suck up a lot of the sealer-stain, which then oozes out. If you go to Google, and type in "red oak bleedback", you will see some messages about it. This doesn't happen with white oak, or pine or any of the other woods I have used -- just red oak.
The lesson that I learned is that if you use any oil-based sealer or stain on red oak, is to put it on sparingly. Now I use a rag which has been squeezed out and spread the sealer-stain. If I didn't cover it well enough, I go over it again, but SPARINGLY. Using this approach has worked for me.
I would guess that using a waterbased stain would avoid the bleedback problem. I would guess that something that goes on lightly in many coats, and dries quickly, such as lacquer would not have a bleedback problem. However I would guess that anything like Watco oil would really be problematic.
The folks on the Minwax help-line were all very nice, but some of them knew much more than others about this problem. If anyone else can help me better understand the red oak bleedback problem, and how to avoid it, I would be appreciative.
I hope that I didn't upset to many Knots-denizens with the thought of buying "ready-to-finish" furniture or using Minwax. I had my orders from SWMBO. Besides, I had seen Norm use red oak on TV, so I figured it was OK.
While my experience with bleedback on red oak was painful at the time, it was a "learning experience". It has caused me to break some old self-imposed shackles, and to experiment with different types stains and finishes. I make lots of mistakes in my woodworking, but I try to make different ones each time. I have come to believe that there are only two mistakes in woodworking that must be avoided at all costs:
1) unsafe work practices, and
2) failure to make mistakes (sometimes called "paralysis by analysis") ((Also called "Getting tied up in Knots.)) :-)
As a result of my many woodworking mistakes, I have learned to curse in different languages so that I do not offend family, friends and neighbors who are within earshot. Who would have guessed that one of the great effects of woodworking as a hobby would be to amplify my linguistic skills?
Enjoy,
Mel
By the way, I heard a great quote the other day:
"Italians are the best woodworkers!!! You got a problem with that?" Tony Soprano
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