Replies

1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 16, 2007 12:23pm | #1

   You could simply wipe on eight or ten coats of thinned oil varnish, either poly or alkyd type varnish. Or more coats if you prefer. Polyurethane varnish gets a bad press in this forum, but it's my experience that applied correctly and used in the right situation it performs very well and looks fine.

   I do though have a slight preference for non-poly type varnishes, but where I am in the UK this type is not available for interior use, so poly it is. I don't know what varnish types are available in the Kiwi market.

   I appreciate the fact that the wood species you're using is oily and not so accomodating for varnish, but highly thinned varnish for the first coat or two should create a good initial bond. Obviously it would be prudent to work up a sample to check your procedure works.

   Apply gloss all through the process and finish off with a bit of wire wool if you want at the end, or apply a different sheen for your final coat. Slainte.

   Richard Jones Furniture

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 16, 2007 03:17pm | #2

   Dewaxed shellac would work well here, either for a coat or two to seal off the oils from an oil based finish, or by adding a few more coats for a final finish that can be polished to very high gloss.  Shellac is about the best finish out there for slowing moisture transfer, better than most varnishes.  It also feels good underhand, if you will actually use the plane.  And, while you can ding it up a bit easier than with a higher tech finish, it is very easy to repair those dings. 

   I do wonder what you will do with the sole.  Applying a film finish to that doesn't seem right, since it is the working surface.  But, when you leave a major surface subject to much greater moisture transfer than the rest of the plane, don't you run some risks of warping. 

    

3. 
   Rich14 | Apr 16, 2007 03:52pm | #3

   philip, I have finished blackwood with shellac (waxed), nitrocellulose lacquer and CAB-Acryllic lacquer. No problem at all with those. I think a catalyzed lacquer would also have no problem. An oil/varnish mixture failed miserably. However, I don't think you will accomplish your goal with any of the finishes. They will slow moisture transfer, but the full amount of change will take place (although slower) and all the stresses you fear will still happen. Why don't you prepare 2 knobs, with and without finish, ship to someone in a very dry place, then have them shipped back in a few months? Here in Arizona, we regularly experience RH of less than 10% until the "Monsoon" season starting in July. Alas, I am preparing to move to Central Florida where I am told one often needs scuba equipment to cope with humidity, just walking around out of the water! Rich

4. 
   blewcrowe | Apr 16, 2007 04:40pm | #4

   Always had trouble with oil finishes curing on Dalbergia. PITA. As someone said, hit the surface with acetone, let it dry off a few minutes, then shellac, then your final finish.

   And be careful with that stuff. I have gotten some severe skin reactions from Rosewoods.

1. 
   philip | Apr 19, 2007 11:41am | #5

   I decided to throw on some catalysed lacquer- the reasoning being that it will retard moisture loss if that plane goes to some desert dry place, and if the customer wishes he can always easily remove it after a suitable period. (Also makes it easy for me).
   Not quite a piano finish, not quite level after two coats plus burnishing compound but one has to draw the line somewhere.I reserve my best piano finish for Jaguar instrument panels, screen rails and other wood components....Philip Marcou

   
1. 
   Ronaway | Apr 19, 2007 02:54pm | #6

   Most people would wish their piano looked that good. How did you apply that cat-a-lac.RonIf you're too open minded your brains will fall out.

2. 
   mapleman | Apr 19, 2007 05:23pm | #7

   Philip,

   That's exceptional. I would second Ron's comment, I'm sure most people wished their piano looked as good.

   Tell us a little more about this plane, why it's special and it deserves special treatment? And by the way, I like the treatment given the screw on the front tote. I see a few subtle variances on this plane that I do not see on some of your others.

   Lee

3. 
   Jimma | Apr 19, 2007 10:03pm | #8

   That is absolutely one of the most beautiful inanimate things I've ever seen!

1. 
   philip | Apr 20, 2007 10:41am | #9

   To answer questions, especially Lee and Ron-thanks for the opportunity.
   The lacquer is pre cat type-Kiwis make good stuff, but first Zinsser seal coat is sprayed on- I think this is a magic cure all and would drink it if I could (;). Do something else for about an hour, then quick rub with 0000steel wool then a very wet coat of lacquer. About an hour later a quick rub down with 1200 silicon carbide paper and water, then another very wet coat. Leave over night, then use soft cloth stitched mop slow revs in wood lathe to polish with BURNISHING compound-same stuff that is used for auto paint-not cutting or rubbing compound- burnishing compound.Takes about 5 minutes. End of job.
   There are some different features on that plane, so I suppose it is an S20A-new version or MK2?
   The differences are:-
   1)The bed- this is now the same idea as on my bevel down smoothers, plus that little knurled screw serves to retain the adjuster base in place when removing the blade and also keeps the lateral movement stiff-so it stays where you have put it if you remove the blade for sharpening or you change the cut.So the brass ramp is replaced by that steel cross piece, which also is good for holding the sides together, like the bridging pin for the cap.There is a slight weight reduction-down to 3.5 kg.
   2)The dovetails- are not double flair. That brass is almost unpeenable. So have left them square and use precision machine taper pins into reamed tapered holes.Anyone who has struggled with a ceased taper on a drill press will know how well this works....plus they are hammered in like rivets and they are alternately offset by 5 degrees from vertical.Guarantees perfect dovetails every time.The picture of the sole shows the square tails.
   3)The dimpled knob and cap screws are merely cosmetic.
   Pictures show the adjuster-nice and simple, with virtually no back lash.
   You can see Uncle Rob's new A2 blade with Veritas logo, plus my own logo lower down.Wiktor Kuc did clear this with Rob first.
   It is not very evident in the pictures, but the Dalbergia has more grain feature than usual- I could never bring myself to cut it up when I was making knives-very very special stuff.Philip Marcou

   Edited 4/20/2007 11:27 pm by philip