Replies

1. 
   bullet_ | Oct 20, 1999 07:36am | #1

   *
   commercial millworkers and furn. manufacturers have been doing it successfully for half a century with toning lacquers.

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   Jeff_Jewitt | Oct 20, 1999 09:58pm | #2

   *Toning lacquers are one solution. The other is to use an equalizing dye stain on all the parts, seal, then selectively glaze the different parts to the same color.You can also do the same thing by applying slightly different colored stains.Its done all the time in commercial finishing as Bullet indicatedJeff Jewitt

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   RJT_ | Oct 21, 1999 06:20am | #3

   *I'm assuming that different intensity dyes, or toning is applied to lighter areas of the veneer? This is more hand work than what I would've thought would take place in a production level. We had a table returned because the veneer would not take the stain at certain intervals of the turn of the log. Some sections were dark, other sections simply wouldn't accept the stain. Cherry veneer, paper backed. The stain was lacquer based, I personally have found more success with oil based. Please explain what an equalizing dye stain is.

1. 
   Jeff_Jewitt | Oct 22, 1999 05:25am | #4

   *An equalizing stain is a dilute red, yellow or brown thats used selectively to bring lighter areas in line with others. Yellow/brownish dye stains can also be used on woods like cherry that have wide tonal variations from board to board to give an overall consistent undertone. These are stains that are used in multi-step applications of color.Equalizing stains are also used to blend sapwood to heartwood.Veneer often has different problems with staining as a result of the cutting/manufacturing process. I almost always use a washcoat or glu-size on cherry veneer top prevent problems such as you describe as well as the toning process that bullet mentionedJeff Jewitt

1. 
   RJT_ | Oct 22, 1999 07:22am | #5

   *Can you give a source for such stains? Is Mohawk one of them?

2. 
   Jeff_Jewitt | Oct 23, 1999 12:14am | #6

   *I'd contact one of their reps or office -- the NGR Ultra Penetrating stains should work fine. Just may want to dilute them more and sneak up on the color.Jeff

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   RJT_ | Oct 24, 1999 10:48pm | #7

   *I just read an article on this in Woodshop News. Blotching is mentioned (in cherry); the particular piece we had a problem with was sanded thoroughly and still stains with a blotch that looks like someone spilled sealer on it. Outside of that, it just damn hard to get it right, with the stains we've got. Gel stain, as mentioned in the article, is something worth checking into too I think.

4. 
   ted_varshine | Nov 22, 1999 04:14am | #8

   *Bullet i need to know where i can get toning lacquer? i do some custom finishing in my shop and on some jobs thet want all the trim and doors the same shade .it would be really nice to use something like toning lacquer on those jobs.some if the jobs we do are 3 to 4 thousand feet of trim so that would really help.if you can help e mail me back ted rtv@bell atlantic.net

5. 
   ron_t | Jan 05, 2000 10:34pm | #9

   *rjt... goto the home page underArticle and Tips on the left hand side and click Techniques then go to Blotch Free Staining. That might help you.

6. 
   Joe_McMurray | Apr 01, 2000 01:49am | #10

   *i use a lot of toners. Stain the entire piece. Put a coat of sanding sealer on and use a cherry spray toner to even out the colors , last but not least clear coat ( toners Being example M.L.Cambell has a line out called woodsong toners)