Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Aug 29, 2006 04:37am | #1

   Isgrn,

   There are a couple of approaches you can take.

    The first thing I would do is give them a light sanding with 220 paper, clean the dust off, and then clean them with a rag wet with denatured alcohol. Do this in sections and wipe the alcohol off before it dries. This will help remove any foreign matter that has accumulated during shipping, handling etc.

   An easy finish to apply would be an exterior grade oil like Cabots or Olympic brand. Check them to make sure they have U.V. inhibitors in them. Simply apply them by brush or a rag and wipe off the excess. You could add a second coat and rub it in with 600 grit wetdry paper. This will fill the pores as you go. Be sure and give it a vigorous rubbing down with a soft cloth as you finish to remove any excess oil.

   Another option would be a spar varnish. This will be more laborious but will give you a surface build that the oil won't. I would put a minimum of three coats on.

   Believe it or not, I use a foam brush to apply varnish. Some will argue you should only use a bristle brush. It's a matter of personal choice and touch. If you use foam, don't press it down to the bottom and press it out. This will create a mass of unwanted bubbles. Just dip it in about a half to three quarters of an inch and remove it. I usually point it upward for a second or two for the varnish to charge the foam. Using a comfortable and fluid stroke, you'll be able to lay down a nice even coating. I do many exterior mahogany doors using this method with great success. You also don't have brush strokes to worry about. Practice it on the underside of the table to get the hang of it. If you do decide to varnish, be sure and scuff sand with 220 or 320 between coats and clean all the dust off. For what it's worth, I've used McCloskey spar varnish a fair amount of the time.

   Whichever finish you decide on, be sure and give the bottoms of the feet the same treatment.

   Any exterior surface needs periodic maintenance. With the oil finish, wash the surface with a mild soap, let it dry completely and re apply the oil.

   With a varnish, clean as above and then scuff sand with 320 sandpaper. I usually follow this with a light rubbing with a maroon scotch pad. Clean all the dust and lay on a coat of varnish.

   Good luck on which ever system you choose. Also I'm not sure what the reasoning behind waiting the two weeks is for.

   Have fun

   Peter Gedrys

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

1. 
   lsgrn | Aug 29, 2006 04:59am | #2

   Thanks, Peter. I appreciate your advice. I have used spar varnish from Southerland Welles.
   It requires putting on tung oil sealer coats first, then the varnish. Have you used this product? I've also used their tung oil.The store, Smith & Hawken recommended using water based sealer. Any opinions on this?Thanks again for your great and detailed advice.Larry Greenbaum
   lsgrn

1. 
   peter28 | Aug 31, 2006 01:25am | #3

   Larry,

   I don't use Sutherland Wells products. If they require you to use their sealer and then their varnish, well to me, that's just sales. You can use any spar varnish by itself.

   You'll have to ask S and H why they recommend water sealer. I don't know.

   Let me know how you do.

   Peter

1. 
   lsgrn | Aug 31, 2006 06:25am | #4

   Thanks, Peter.Your advice and availability has been great. The FineWoodworking.com online subscription is great, if only to communicate directly with expert staff. I really appreciate it and recommend the subscription to others.Larry

1. 
   peter28 | Aug 31, 2006 05:29pm | #5

   Larry,

   Thank you for your kind words. It also is much appreciated.

   Peter