Replies

1. 
   SparrowHawk | Sep 21, 2003 12:55pm | #1

   Hi ewe13,

   I routinely make boxes that get a coat of BLO to bring out the grain. That is followed by several coats of 1# shellac then 2# and then paste wax. With walnut you might want to consider grain filler if a smooth surface is important. I've had good results from Pore-O-Pac by Behlen for that. Tung Oil and Danish Oil are generally oil/varnish blends that dry a bit harder than pure oils but should also work under shellac. The best way to gain confidence in your finish is to try it on a piece of scrap and see how it looks.

   Be safe,
   Ken

1. 
   Telemike | Sep 24, 2003 07:56am | #8

   I'd agree that a watco danish oil (natural) to develop the color followed by wipe on poly is a great finish - this is almost my only finish nowadays.  However, the danish oil will bleed out of pores for 3 -12 hrs after you apply it, depending on how much you soak it.  Come back every hour or so and wipe again to remove the bleed out for 6 - 12 hours.  Otherwise, there will be a shiny deposit at the opening to many pores that will take forever to dry and require mucho sanding.  This is true of any open pored wood.

1. 
   davamoore | Sep 24, 2003 04:08pm | #9

   Good point... and I let the Danish oil cure for several days, up to a week, before topping it with anything else, just to make sure.

   David"The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad

2. 
   goldhiller | Sep 21, 2003 06:51pm | #2

   "The wood is walnut and after sanding it is a light to medium tan color not the typical dark walnut. I am contemplating using an oil

   finish such as a danish oil or tung oil."

   Are you contemplating using the oil in an attempt to darken the walnut sufficiently for your intentions and/or needs, i.e., to get it more closely matched with other walnut in the piece? If so, you might be disappointed in that regard. Staining or other means of coloration may be required to achieve that.

   Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
3. 
   PnCbWshp | Sep 22, 2003 02:19am | #3

   I've had real good luck finishing black walnut with two Watco products made to work with eachother-Watco Danish Oil first, then Watco Wipe-On-Poly.

   Follow the directions and its hard to go wrong. Two coats of oil applied same day; then dry overnight. Three coats of poly drying 24 hrs. between coats with light sanding between each. I use the 3M scrotchbrite type pad instead of 220 grit.

   I've made some beautiful table tops with this easy low-tech method. Watco clear danish oil gives a nice brown tone on walnut while Watco cherry danish oil gives a richer darker tone. I really like the latter color.

4. 
   cutoffcollector | Sep 22, 2003 04:21am | #4

   ewe33,

   I just completed aFrench Country buffet out of solid walnut and I mixed up an oil finish that I had used in the past. The finish consists of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, varnish and either turpentine or mineral spirits. I usually apply two or three coats as follows.

   The first coat has two parts of turpentine or mineral spirits to make it thinner so it will penetrate deeper into the wood. You can wipe it on with a cloth pad or use a brush. Let it sit for awhile and while it's still wet, gently sand the the exposed surfaces with 600 grit wet or dry paper ALWAYS going with the grain. The fine sanding dust is absorbed into the wet finish and acts as a pore filler. When the first coat starts to set up, wipe the remaining finish off with some rags.If the finish has set enough to get tacky and tough to wipe off, put somemore finish on the area and then wipe again.  Let the project set until the surfaces feel smooth with no hint of tackiness, usually a day or two. Then you can put on the remaining coats consisting of equal parts of the ingredients and are applied and wiped off in the same manner with drying time between coats.

   You can use gloss, semi-gloss or satin varnish depending on the amount of sheen that you desire. The buffet was finished with satin and really does not have much of a shine at all. I put a thin coat of Restoration wax on as additional protection.

   I suggest that you Mix up a small amount and try it on some walnut stock that has been sanded. It's my opinion that it really brings out the grain. I belive this is because the first coat really sinks into the wood rather than laying on the surface.

   Good luck with your finishing!

   Jon

1. 
   davamoore | Sep 22, 2003 10:42pm | #5

   ewe33,

   cutoff collector got there first, but I would second his recommendation to use 600 grit sandpaper (I've actually used 320 grit with good results, since walnut's pores are relatively large) and a light sanding with the first coat of wet oil in order to fill the grain on walnut... it may not do as "complete" of a fill as the various woodfillers, but the effect is great and the likelihood of making a mistake during the process is extremely low.

   The light tan color you're noticing after sanding... this could just be the effect of the fine scratches and leftover dust that's tough to get off.  Working with walnut fairly frequently, I see it all the time -- the unsanded wood appears -- stress "appears" -- to be lighter after it goes through all the sanding steps/grades, but once the finish is applied the nice dark color pops right back up. 

   I also like putting a bit of dewaxed orange shellac on top of an oil finish, not only for the quality of the finish, but also for the warm reddish tones it brings back to kiln-dried walnut.

   David

   "The world that was not made is not won by what is done" -- Mundaka Upanishad

   Edited 9/22/2003 3:45:32 PM ET by davamoore

5. 
   Shep | Sep 23, 2003 04:26am | #6

   ewe33-- one of my favorite finishes is Waterlox oil. Its a tung oil finish that can build to almost any gloss you want. I like it because its easy to apply and repair, and it provides more protection than other oil finishes. 

1. 
   Biscardi | Sep 23, 2003 04:38am | #7

   Orange shellac or buttonlac over oil is really gorgeous. It is also more water resistant and durable than some would have you believe- especially if waxed. However, if you are going to use it to put your scotch and soda down on, try  lacquer.

   I don't know if you can stain it after it has been oiled. You can tint shellac with aniline dyes.

   Frank