I was reading “Understanding Wood” regarding finishes and the author mentioned the concept of not automatically using certain finishes just for the sake of using them.
As a challenge, I’m trying to come up with a finish that can be applied with the absolute least amount of fumes. On that extreme, I suppose, is bees wax. Is there anything else that could be applied to furniture in a small, closed space that wouldn’t produce fumes?
To be clear, I define “fumes” as the harmful smells produced by turpentine and shellac and varnish and such. Everything has a smell, but I’m trying to eliminate, to the degree possible, the harmful aspects.
My goal is to protect the wood from moisture exchange. The furniture I want to make will be indoors and will likely not come into contact with water (liquid, that is — it will certainly come into contact with vapor). I state the obvious because my goal is to protect the wood, not to use any particular finish because I have done so in the past or because it seems like the automatic thing to do.
The author mentioned lemon oil. Has anyone used that? Does it involve harmful fumes?
I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
Mitch
Replies
Milk paint.
Mineral oil is about as fume-less a finish as any you can use, but it doesn't offer much in the way of long-term protection.
Mitch,
I don't have all the answers but it seems to me you want to look at the spectrum of options and determine which is the best answer to two basic questions: wood protection and maintenance of the piece (cleaning). On one end of the spectrum you have either oil based polish or wax based polish and on the other end oil based paint or water based paint. I think the order would go wax, oil, shellac, lacquer, varnish, poly, paint...I'm sure wiser folks here will chime in and correct me.
As far as smell goes, they all disapate over time, however, the shortest time frame would be with wax, shellac, lacquer and poly in that order...hope I'm not to wrong....
Mitch,
None of the common finishes prevent moisture exchange, they just slow it down some and even out the expansion and contraction cycle. The primary purpose of finishes is to bring out the grain in the wood and make it less prone to pick up dirt. On table tops the finish does need to be resistant to liquid water and abrasion but almost everywhere else the finish is there primarily for appearance.
Just because a finish has a strong odor doesn't automatically make it more hazardous than a low odor finish, in fact a lot of really toxic materials are odorless. If you are really concerned about toxicity you will need to look at more than the materials odor.
Mineral oil doesn't dry so it wouldn't be a good finish for furniture, I suspect the same is true of lemon oil.
The Tried and True brand of finishes are made out of pure linseed oil, which is edible, but they do have a strong odor when applied.
Waxes are low odor and generally low toxicity but they dull and pick up dirt over time. Typically to renew a wax finish you wipe down the piece with naptha or paint thinner to remove the old wax, something you are trying to avoid.
A good mask will prevent fume exposure while allowing you a much wider choice of finishes. My personal choice for overall low toxicity is shellac but it is does have a very strong odor while it is being applied.
John W.
I have used the Tried and True Linseed oil and beeswax product, with good results. It has a definite odor, but no "fumes". According to the package, there are no VOCs, and while not intended as such, it is edible. I did not taste it, but with some vinegar it might make a nice salad dressing.
Pure tung oil is another choice, and is said to be better at protecting from moisture than linseed oil. Just be sure not to buy "tung oil varnish", or any other product containing dryers.
As others have said, though, almost all finishes are non toxic when fully cured.
Keep in mind, that wax and pure oils like boiled linseed oil and pure, real tung oil provide little or no water and watervapor protection and have no long term durability. While pure tung oil has somewhat more water resistance compared to linseed oil it is minimal.
Go to the Wood Products Handbook published by the US Forest Service. In Chapter 15 they have an extensive discussion and tests of finishes. Table 15-3 in particular, shows the water and watervapor inhabition by various finishes.
Go to: http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/FPLGTR/fplgtr113/Ch15.pdf
If something emits an odor, the odor is fumes. Even waterborne products contain solvents and other chemicals that can be dangerous in concentrated amounts.
Mitch,
The book you refer to has a lot of information on your question(s); you just have to dig a little deeper.
Start with Chapter 13, "Choosing a Finish" and especially the chart on pages 208 & 209. All the important characteristics of the different finishes are covered, including health related concerns. Unless you use a solid wax (e.g., parafin not dissolved in a solvent), there will be "fumes" involved and adequate ventilation will be required.
Paul
Shellac is about as toxic as a Martini. If you mix it in denatured alcohol and keep a window open and wear gloves you really aren't likely to get sick.
Frank,
The open window provides the "adequate ventilation." Most commercial denatured alcohol contains a small percentage (5% +/-) methanol and its fumes are pretty dangerous, especially in a closed space. Even pure ethanol would need to be ventilated.
There are a number of finish choices that meet the criteria for adequate ventilation without the need for a respirator. But, the original question eliminated all ventilation and fumes. Seems more of a theoretical question than a practical application situation to me.
Paul
I guess you could use straight grain alcohol. A little pricy maybe.
Frank
Doesn't everyone use a little methanol in their Martini?
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled