Replies

1. 
   Bob_Van_Dyke | Jan 28, 2007 04:08am | #1

   JPL-
   I tell my students- the third (maybe second) plane you need- after a low angle block plane and a # 4 or # 5 bench plane, is a good quality shoulder plane.
   A shoulder plane is perfect for thicknessing a tenon that is too tight, it can accurately shoot the shoulder of a tenon that may be a little out of square and it can refine a rabbet that may need to be straightened or made deeper. A rabbet plane can deepen the rabbet and it can do a passable job on thicknessing a larger tenon (a small tenon would be pretty hard to do). A bullnose plane looks like a shoulder plane but without the long "nose" in front of the cutting edge. That "nose" on the shoulder plane is really important to register straightness before the cutter is actually in contact with the wood. Most of the tasks mentioned are not done well with the bullnose plane (I used my bullnose plane about 6 years ago- I don't remember fow what!).
   Once a shoulder plane is tuned up- the iron is sharpened and is square to both sides of the plane, the iron is ground flush with the sides of the plane and the sole is actually flat, straight and square to the sides of the plane, you will have an excellent tool.

   As with most things in life- you get what you pay for! I have been using a Stanley #92 for years- I like the size of it and I espoecially like the low profile- I find that low profile makes it easier to control. Expect to do a lot of tuning up with the Stanley planes.
   the Clifton planes (the 3110 or the 410) are a lot more money but are my hands down favorite. They are the same low profile that I find easy to use and there is very little tune up needed (a little honing and grind the iron flush to the sides when you get around to it.)
   The Lie-Nielsen planes are superb quality- but personally I find the high profile of the new shoulder planes to be difficult to hold and control in most jobs. I am sure there are other shoulder planes out there- but I have not had the opportunity to use them.

   Unfortunately you won't find used shoulder planes as easily as you will other planes so unless you want to spend some serious time looking you will probably end up buying new.

   As far as follow-up acquisitions: with a block plane, a # 4 or # 5, and a shoulder plane- you can rule the world! (you might decide to buy a jointer plane one of these days but I hardly ever use mine.
   After that- just admit it- you are into collecting planes!

   and remember- a dull handplane is just an expensive paperweight!

   Bob

1. 
   jplerxt | Jan 28, 2007 02:59pm | #2

   Thank you for the lucid and entertaining reply - you confirmed my hunch about a top-quality shoulder plane. And yes, I do find that planes are absolutely beautiful pieces of machinery / art, when done well.

   best regards,

   JPL

    

1. 
   Bob_Van_Dyke | Jan 29, 2007 07:33pm | #5

   JPL
   I realized during class yseterday that I had left out two really important planes on my list.
   I use a 4 1/2 all the time for final smoothing. That is ALL I use it for- Final smoothing of any parts- legs, tabletop, whatever- comes out better, smoother and faster than with any sander, card scraper etc.
   The other one I would not want to be without is a compass plane. I use mine all the time for any concave curves- It smooths out any bumps from a bandsaw or spindle sander in no time at all.
   Bob

2. 
   pezeshki | Jan 29, 2007 03:34am | #3

   Hi Bob,Another alternative--A Stanley 140 as a replacement for the shoulder plane, and a small bullnose plane.I use 3 planes almost exclusively (been building furniture for 15 years at a journeyman level) -- a #4, a Stanley 90, and a Stanley 140 (Lie Nielsen makes one). I have over 90 in my possession, of all shapes and sizes, and all in prime working condition-- that's what to me is so interesting.Keeps the kit small, and the 140 serves as a wider surface planing tool that a smaller shoulder plane.And yes-- I totally agree-- no plane works if dull!Best,Chuck

1. 
   Bob_Van_Dyke | Jan 29, 2007 07:28pm | #4

   chuck
   Thanks for the response. While I respect your preferences to which tools you use- and those choices are always determined by the tasks at hand, I would stand by my shoulder plane recommendation. The long "nose" in front of the iron gets the plane registered for straightness well before the cutting edge is engaged with the wood- which means the whole surface will be planed straight. This is especially critical if you are planing the end grain of the shoulder on a tenon that might need adjustment. The bullnose plane does not do that.The 140 is a great tool for certain jobs- I have had a LN 140 for years and have used it many times. It does a decent job thicknessing a tenon (as long as the tenon is long enough- (a 1/4" stub tenon would be pretty dificult to keep straight with that plane), it does a superb job adjusting a rabbet, but once again- I would find straightening or adjusting the shoulder of a tenon (especially an angled tenon) to be very awkward and imprecise with a 140.But thats what makes woodworking fun and why so many planes have been designed over the years. Different preferences, different tasks, etc.
   90 planes? Thats a significant collection- you shouold take some pictures and post them- I am sure a lot of readers would be interested.
   Best
   Bob

1. 
   pezeshki | Jan 29, 2007 08:45pm | #6

   Hi Bob,I think you're right on about that angled tenon thing. That's when I reach for my shoulder plane too! ;-)Attached is a picture from about 10 years ago and the old shop. I think there's about 75 planes, spokeshaves, and marking gauges on the table. I got involved in collecting them before it became popular-- hence, my collection habit was more financially manageable!I look kind of grim in that picture, though!Best,Chuck