Replies

1. 
   notDusty | Nov 07, 2003 10:37am | #1

                Hi Mytthor ,                  

        Why would you use grain raising water on the wood ? The raised panel can be finish sanded before assembly but the frame needs to be assembled and then sanded to even out any discrepancies .I sand the shaper detail on the inside edge of the frame before assembly also . By the time you put an edge detail on door the frame will need more sanding , why do it more times than needed ? IMHO wait until after assembly to do your finish sanding.I have no experience with HVLP guns but started out 25 years ago using a conventional spay rig and now only use an airless rig .In general with lacquer type finish the trick is to build thin coats as opposed to trying to get too thick with a single coating . best of luck to you                       dusty

2. 
   gecko | Nov 07, 2003 06:46pm | #2

   Here is what I do and what all people I know that spray do.

   1) Sand all doors to 220, after final assembly

   2) Spray first coat and let dry completely.

   3) Sand very lightly with 220 to knock down the raised grain. Use 000 steel wool for profiles. (Makes life much easier)

   4) Spray slightly heavier coat over the sanded surfaces.

   5) Repeat step 3 then spray a third coat.

   (Sometimes step 5 is not needed depending on the type of finish.)

   Also it’s a good idea to spray the backs of the doors first because when you spray the fronts you will cover up any overspray 'shaddows' left on the front.

   Keep in mind that spraying a finish is not only meant to give you great results in a finish coat but it is also meant to be faster than hand applying the finish. Don’t defeat the purpose.

3. 
   DougF | Nov 07, 2003 09:25pm | #3

   Hi Tim,

   I know that "sweaty palms" feeling when embarking on something new and particularly with such a large project as a kitchen.  One thing your post said that concerns me is that you intend to use a satin finish lacquer.  If you spray each successive coat with the satin finish, you may be very disappointed in the end result since each coat will cloud or muddy the natural graining and highlights.  Normally, you coat with gloss and use the satin, egg shell or semi-gloss as the last coat; or, you use gloss and then finish the surface to achieve the desire gloss by choosing the appropriate grit or rubbing compound cut.  In any event, I would urge you to take a fairly large piece of your material and experiment until you find the finish that best compliments your project. 

   Good luck!

   Doug

4. 
   PlaneWood | Nov 10, 2003 07:15pm | #4

   Tim -

   Nobody said anything about using a grain filler.  Red Oak is a fairly open grained wood.  Whether you use a grain filler or not depends on the effect your wanting to achieve. 

   Most full service paint stores will have grain filler.  You might want to get some and try it on some scrap first.  Compare the scrap pieces, after lacquering, with and without the filler.

   I've never used water to raise the grain when using oil based paints.  I just spray on a light coat, partially thinned, then block and/or hand sand using 220 grit paper.  Since your not staining, then no worry about sanding through the stain.

   What part of the country are you in?  If your in cold country, then the lacquer will take quite a bit longer to dry.  Spray outside if you can then move the pieces inside.  If sparying inside then follow precautions (open flames, air circulation, etc). 

   I find that a pleasing shean can be achieved by using 0000 steel wool after the last coat then buffing with a lambs wool bonnet on an electric buffer.  I generally wait 24 hrs after the last coat to do this.   Maybe longer if the temp is under 75 degrees.  Only light pressure is necessary when machine buffing.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

5. 
   mike4244 | Nov 11, 2003 01:33am | #5

   Tim, one thing I did not notice in the previous posts is the need to finish the raised panels before gluing up the frame. If you do not do this you will see raw wood without finish when the panels shrink in winter. I do some spraying but not with HVLP, so I can't offer advice there.Make sure you allow for expansion in the width of the panels. I usually leave 1/8" room on each side and 1/16" overall in the height for red oak panels that are 14" or less in width. This could change depending on where you live. More room in florida, less in arizona, the relative humidity determines this.

   As far as learning to spray, I found that it is easier than I thought it would be. I practiced spraying water for a while to get an idea what to do. Check out the finishing forums for better advice than I can give you.Last thing is to keep the gun clean, follow directions in manual exactly .

   I would finish the panels only, then glue the rails and stiles up with the panel in it. Make sure you do not glue the panel to the stiles or rails. When glue is dry then sand the frames to 220 and spray.Skip the wetting, sand lightly between coats if you need to.

   mike

6. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Nov 11, 2003 02:43am | #6

   If you are raising the grain with water, sand to 180, raise the grain, sand with 220.  Save a step. 

   I use WB finishes almost exclusively and raise the grain before staining/ finishing.     I sand with finer grits as the finish is applied, 320, 400, 600 between coats. 

   If you are treading on new ground here, take some fall off of your material and do test runs to get comforatble with the equipment, product, and procedure.

1. 
   Sancho | Nov 11, 2003 04:27am | #7

   Joe Fusco at his site http://www.JoesphFusco.org has a great step by instructoins for prepping wood for spraying and spraying the project using Fuhr. I havent used fuhr personally but his instructions are right on the money 

   Darkworksite4:

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