Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Mar 25, 2012 12:14pm | #1

   Mounting your vise

   A skirt on the front edge of the bench will add a wider area against which to stabilize longer boards, and provides a secondary clamping surface for use with short clamps.

   You'll want the rear, stationary face of the vise even with either the edge of the bench, or the face of the skirt, if you add one. That usually means cutting out an area on the edge of the bench, so the jaw is flush with the edge. Depending on the dimensions of the vise, you may also need to add a board to the underside of the bench, so the top of the vise jaws are even with the top surface of the bench. With most vises, you'll be bolting through this "shim" board to the underside of the bench. Also, pay attention to where the screw holes are in the back jaw of the vise. If you plan on adding a wood face to the vise jaws, that will also affect the skirt thickness, of course.

1. 
   Newwoodsman | Mar 27, 2012 10:29am | #3

   Mounting My Vise

   Thanks Ralph.  So I assume the skirt does not cover the entire length of the bench, just cut out an area to match the length of the wood face of the vise jaw.  I will be attaching a piece of walnut as the wood  face.  The moveable vise jaw is about 9 inches wide.  The walnut vise face is currently about 14 inches wide.  Is this a good size for the vise face?  I've attached some pictures of the vise and the vise face.  It came from Rockler.  It is very heavy. 

   To Cameron's question, It's a Rockler Heavy -Duty Front Vise.  I have to say that the installaton instructions leave a bit to be desired.  For instance, there are no included instructions beyond what is on the box.  Judging by the picture, it is obvious that it has to be taken apart so that holes for those three shafts can be measured against the vise face. I havent yet figured that out.  I think those nuts have to come off the front.  Then the two hex screws keeping the outside shafts onto the back need to be removed.  But I am still a littel confused as to how the middle screw shaft comes apart.  Push comes to shove, I'll take it back down there and have 'em show me.

   
1. 
   RalphBarker | Mar 29, 2012 07:49pm | #4

   Let me count the ways . . .

   I'd need to grow a few more hands to count the dfferent approaches to vise design and mounting.

   Let's start back at the apron, however. Typically, the apron (if one is desired) extends the full length of the bench, and is attached to the edge, extending down between 4" and 6" or so. The apron is often only 4/4 stock, but because it extends below the edge of the bench, it provides a surface that can be used with clamps to hold the other end of a board held in the vise. Holes would need to be drilled through the apron where the vise is being mounted, so the guide bars and screw could pass through the the vise mounting block.

   Once the retaining screws are removed from the guide bars, the center screw should come out of the mounting block by simply continuing to unscrew it. It goes back in the same way.

   The next question to decide is how much depth capacity you want in the vise. Without adding a spacing block under the benchtop, you'd only have a couple of inches of clamping area between the top surface of the benchtop and the guide bars and screw of the vise. So, you'll likely want to add at least a couple of inches more by way of a spacing block. That should be screwed (not glued) to the underside of the bench, behind the apron (if you want one).

   Don't forget to allow for seasonal expansion/contraction of the top by making the screw holes a bit over-sized, or elongated. Leave a little room between the front edge of the spacing block and the back surface of the apron for the same reason. The screws (lag bolts?)  for the vise mounting block should probably go through the spacer block into the benchtop proper.

   If you will be adding an apron, it's a good idea to mount it first, so you can then drill the holes for the vise screw and guide bars through both the wooden jaw block and the apron at the same time. Those holes can be slightly over-sized to allow some adjustment of the jaw block once the vise is mounted. Leave the screws through the front of the vise into the jaw block as the last steo, so you can adjust it to be flush with the top of the bench.

1. 
   Newwoodsman | Mar 31, 2012 07:06pm | #5

   A Very Good Way

   Apron it is.  This gives me a much clearer picture.  I am now ready to start installing this vise with much more confidence.  I will be using a spacing block as well.  Thanks so much, Ralph.  I will keep you posted (no pun intended!)

2. 
   cbowen777 | Mar 26, 2012 12:57am | #2

   Bench Vise

   Hey out of curiosity what vise did you choose to use for your bench?

   Thanks,

   Cameron