I’ve been using a water-based acryllic polyurethane and now have fisheyes popping up all over my table top. I’ve read a number of posting and articles (from FW), and realize that because I’ve used a water-based product, I cannot simply remedy the situation by adding thinner or fisheye reducer.
Help. What can I do?
I’ve been applying it (I thought…) very smoothly and tipping off very gently.
As well, when I sand between coats (with either a 400 or 600 grit paper), I notice that the surface remains marred rather than clearing up as I thought it would. What should I do for my final coat to avoid this?
Thanks from noviceland,
mbookbinder
Replies
Before we can find the solution we must uncover the cause. What are you covering with acyrlic? How was the surface prepared? What is the temperature and humidity in your finishing space? Which particular finish are you applying.
Fisheyes usually mean there is a chemical contaminent (generally silicone) on the surface. Until that issue is resolved, adding more coats isn't going to be successful. Waterborne finishes also tend to mis-behave when the temperature is a bit too low.
Hey guys, I spray lacquers and have been lucky and have not had any fisheyes. That is until 2 weeks ago. I'm noticing fisheyes on my surfaces, Not alot but one is too many. I found out my rings went on my air compressor and were pumping oil into my lines, which in return gave me the dreaded fisheye. I dont know much about water born finishes but maybe you could have the same problem. Hope this helps
-Lou
A couple drops of fish-eye eliminator per gallon will do the trick.
squirtz works
Nic, Does fisheye remover go bad?
Thanks, Lou
I never had a problem.
But once you start with fisheye eliminator you may be stuck with it for the long-term. If possible, better to uncover the cause.
That's what everybody says.
But it's no big deal to just use it all the time. We can't keep end users from using Pledge anyway.
Whats it hurt?
Fish eye remover is nothing more than pure silicone. It works by reducing the surface tension of all the finish, not just the spots where silicone contamination is present. Some have likened it to creating a big, surface wide fisheye so you don't see the little fisheyes.
The problem is that once you use fish eye remover, you will have contaminated all your spray equipment and anything else that the overspray gets on. Any wood or other project in the area will now have silicone on it which can cause a problem later on.
There are other ways to deal with silicone contamination that will not get everything else contaminated. In the shop I was involved with, we use a strategy of a barrier coat of shellac to deal with the problem.Howie.........
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