Replies

1. 
   MarkRD | Jun 20, 2005 02:08pm | #1

   Clem, move. Just Kidding. :-)

   Will the book cases have a "toe kick"? If so, cut it to match the slope of the floor. Only us hypercritical knotheads would notice. Everyone else will look at the shelves and comment on how nice they look...

   Mark

   Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.

1. 
   clem | Jun 21, 2005 05:38am | #5

   Thanks for all the help!!  Looks like the best way is to keep the sides equal and probably shim them level then run moulding.  This is my first venture into the commercial side of woodworking so I want to be sure I don't screw up too bad.  What better place than here to get some great advice.

   Thanks again

   Clem

2. 
   BG | Jun 20, 2005 06:34pm | #2

   clem,
   I'd make it square with equal sides, etc....and then cut a 3/4" strip for the side, and perhaps a tapered strip for the front...and futz with that till perfect. After staining, etc. the seam would not show much. Regardless, I've never put a level on any piece of furniture in my living room, dining room, etc. so dead flat is not a big deal..

    

3. 
   jazzdogg | Jun 20, 2005 07:29pm | #3

   Clem,

   After reading your post, I'm not sure if your bookcases will be freestanding or built-ins. If your cases will sit on top of a separate sub-base it will be fairly simple to make the sub-base for the out-of-level section of floor at least 3/4" longer than its companion, position it plumb and level using shims, scribe it to the floor, and trim it to fit exactly.

   The same can be done without a separate sub-base, but only if you allow extra material to be scribed and trimmed.

   Working with a separate sub-base is a lot more forgiving, because if you mess up you can toss it and start all over again. Also, if you're using a separate sub-base, you can simply replace it if you decide to relocate the bookcases to a level location in the future. If you haven't done this kind of work before, practicing on a mock-up can save you needless headaches.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/20/2005 12:33 pm ET by jazzdogg

4. 
   ButchersWood | Jun 20, 2005 08:04pm | #4

   I assume you will mount them to the wall or at least flush to it, and that the wall is reasonably plumb and you want the shelves to be level and plumb. For bookshelves usually flush to the wall works fine.

   Molding was created for just this problem. You have two main choices:

   1. Run some sort of baseboard-type molding around the bottom, and scribe to the floor, or

   2. Once it is level apply 1" shoe molding all around to cover the gap.

   good luck!

   Roger

   I'd rather be making cabinets and friends....

5. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 21, 2005 09:05pm | #6

   I'd go to the basement and find the post that rotted away...

1. 
   clem | Jun 22, 2005 12:53am | #9

   just an old house.  Besids I'm afraid of what I may find :).

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 23, 2005 10:00pm | #10

   Sorry   I JUST HAD TO!

6. 
   Ricks503 | Jun 21, 2005 09:14pm | #7

   One quick question, which will determine the fix.

   Is the door frame not level or not plumb?

   Differant possibilities depending on which it is.

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
1. 
   clem | Jun 22, 2005 12:50am | #8

   The wall the bookcases will be against and the door they will incase are new and level.  Just that the rest of the house is 100 yeasr old so it has settled.  I didn't think to check the ajoining walls.  I was more concerened with the out of plumb floor.  I thought I would just hang the face frame over and scribe it in place.  It will be painted.

   Thanks

   Clem