All,
This may sound a little anal, but I’m really trying to learn rather than being exacting. I’ve made a fitted draw front such that I have about a 1/16″ gap..total. I’d like to have 1/32″ on each side and no play..or at least minimal. I tapered the draw about 1/16″ from front to back. I’m using runners and trying to adjust these to get the draw perfect in the opening…not so easy to make such small adjustments. Any ideas?
Replies
Other than wait for a humid day use tape for shim stock. Masking, duct etc. A cut up coffee can lid. Machine screw washers.
16 th taper the length of the drawer or thickness of the face? I hope I understood what you are asking.
Imerc,
The taper is applied to the lenght of the draw ie. the front is 14 3/4" wide and the back is 14 11/16" wide...I read some where this is a good idea...think it helps with sticking when there is swelling.
Could you describe runner placement / type. Are you trying to control play in the runners?
Verneer added to the drawer or used as shim stock works too.
Imerc,
"Could you describe runner placement / type"
I'll try, I'm not sure of all the terminology.
I actually placed a set of runners inside the draw sides (underneath the draw bottom)that butt up against the backside of the front of the draw...attached with a couple of screws to the dust frame... I have moved these around a bit to achieve a flush relatively balanced fit in the opening...now I'm trying to improve it just a bit more. Surprisingly, I have not seen this aspect of draw making addressed in any articles or posts.
Edited 8/3/2003 12:03:22 PM ET by BG
I have to admit it, I get to wear te DUH! sign.
I see it as the drawer is 1/32 off center. You want adjust the drawer 1/64" to center it up.
Are these measurement correct?
Imerc,
Your measurements are almost correct. The total gap, from side to side on the front is about 1/16..i want a 1/32 gap on each side of the draw front... and trying to adjust two runners 1/32" of an inch...ouch!....lol
..and maybe it just doesn't get any better than that..?
Edited 8/3/2003 5:03:47 PM ET by BG
I still see it as a 64th. Take it away from one side and add it to the other side.
What are the guides made out of?
Does the drawer ride free on the guides or is it mechanically attached?
Are you acually using glides or slides instead guides?
Are there rollers involved?
Go here and pick a product that you are using. Post that product number.
http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp
Request a catalog series while you are there. This is one squared away company. Good one too.
Edited 8/3/2003 5:22:57 PM ET by IMERC
Imerc,
The guides are a coupla strips of white oak...form the scrap heap. No other guides..metal or otherwise
Shave one shim the other. Use vineer as a shim.
Have another idea.
What is the end profile and measurements to your guides?
Exacatly how are you fastening these to the cabinet face rame?
Imerc,
Yes, tight to one side..open on the other
They are actually fastened (two screws) into the dust frame..because they are inside the sides of the draws and behind the front. I could shim on side and file the other...just not sure how long the shim would last...given the friction. But, that is what I'm looking for...how do you guys get it tight?
...and how tight should it be?
they measure about 1/4"x1/8"x15"
Edited 8/3/2003 6:13:55 PM ET by BG
Are you calling the face frame the dust frame? The glide I take it is "L" shaped or is it rectangle.
The drawer slide fine?
Put a ledger under the glides, attached to the dust frame, pin the glides to to the ledger. The ledger is perpendicular to the glides. Or drill an over sized hole thru the glide and pocket it for a pan head screw. That will give you lateral movement.
Can you shave a 16th off the tight side of the drawer face?
What kind of cabinate is this?
The tolerences you are trying to hold - come a humid day the the drawers willbe stuck shut.
Can you post a picture?
Imerc,
I wish I did have a camera, let me back up a bit and describe the piece and what I'm calling a 'dustframe' (not the correct word I suspect).
I'm making a shaker style cherry side table with tapered legs. The draw front is fitted going from leg to leg (about 16"), 4 1/2 high and 19" deep. the aprons are about 6 1/2" and front rails are about 1"x1.5"...with the 1" facing out. Attached to the bottom rail in front, with biscuits, is a maple frame (rectangular) that is about 2" each side and attached to a cleat on the back apron. I'm calling this maple frame the 'dustframe'.
There are runners running between the front and rear legs which are flush with the legs.
While I was fitting the draw (before the draw bottom had been installed) to the carcas, I got the idea of putting runners on the inside of the draw sides and behind the front ..attached to the dustframe. The runners would stop the draw from being pushed in too far...and also guide the draw for a perfect fit.
With regard to humidity and swelling, the draw sides are a fat 3/8" thick and the runners are about 3/8" wide also...
Shim the tight side with maple or oak veneer or a material of your choice for the full length of the glide. Sand, file or relief cut the opposing side's guide. With a little T&E you should be able to shave yourself a shim of a desired thickness. You could relief cut side the side of the drawer instead of the guide if you can be comfortable with that. Move the drawer the 32nd you want.
If your guides are removeable, make new ones. That would be my first choice and objective.
Is it that you are tight to one side and open on the other?
Flat head screw under the runner as infinite mwthod of ajustment.
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