Replies

1. 
   Pondfish | Jan 23, 2007 06:08am | #1

   First, how is the case assembled?  I make cases using pocket screw joinery, which is quite strong.  Weak joints can lead to racking.

   Second, you can reinforce the case some by adding a couple stretchers/nailers to the back.  These are 3/4 pieces that span the width of the cabinet, but are only 2-3" wide.  Again, secure them tightly to the sides of the cabinet.

   A case that is joined with strong joints and solid sides (& top and bottom) will not rack. 

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
2. 
   ChuckN | Jan 23, 2007 06:36am | #2

   In my very limited experience I have found that it's next to if not impossible to make a perfectly square cabinet.  And, if you think about it, if it wasn't then there would be no such thing as "lipped" doors and drawers. 

   I can't see in your photos where your cabinet is rack very far.  So I would think it's just a mater of cutting your doors to fit the opening.  No big thing.  It's done all the time.

   BTW.  Very cool cabinet.  I like the feet.  Did you make them yourself or did you buy them?  And if you bought them, where?

    

    

   I spent a fortune on deodorant until I finally realized that people didn't like me anyway.

3. 
   hammer1 | Jan 23, 2007 06:37am | #3

   That's a very nice cabinet, V. You shouldn't be getting any racking with that size, even without a back. That usually means your joints at the top and bottom are loose. What type of a joint did you use, and, is that a fixed shelf in the middle, dadoed into the side panels? I hope you didn't biscuit the thing together!

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

4. 
   uncleSteve | Jan 23, 2007 06:48am | #4

   Other than the joints being lose it may be you floor is not level. The cabinet will flex to sit flat to the floor. Just shim one leg until the doors are level. Nice looking cabinet. Steve Nearman Fredericksburg, VA View Image The Master's Touch Furniture Restoration Service Quality restorations and repairs for over 35 years! (540) 371-5566 http://FurnitureRepair.net/

5. 
   BG | Jan 23, 2007 01:39pm | #5

   vwalla,
   That is a beautiful cabinet regardless of the racking. Personally, I'm affraid to build faceless cabinets for fear of racking...but there has got to be a way.
   I think your solution may be build a wine rack and attach it inside the case...

1. 
   vwalla | Jan 23, 2007 03:49pm | #6

   Thanks to all that repiled.  It just so happens that the floor was uneven...shimmed & is just fine, thatnks UncleSteve.

   ChuckN, I made the feet myself using techniques on finewoodworking.com (Lonnie Bird)

   Here is the link to the 3 part video.

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/subscription/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=27466

   The top is rabbeted & glued and the side & bottom are dadoed in...no biscuits.

   Also, thank you for all the compliments...it means a great deal to me especially coming from people who understand the craftsmanship behind woodworking.

6. 
   JohnWW | Jan 23, 2007 06:45pm | #7

   A large deep box, made with relatively thin stock, and no face frame, will be "soft" at the front opening, it's just basic physics.  If the joinery is a bit loose, or not quite square, the problem will be worse, but even a perfectly made cabinet of the style you built would have problems.

   There is no obvious place to add reinforcement at this point, so I would second someone else's advice to shim the front or rear legs, while the cabinet has some weight in it, and you will be able to bring the front opening into alignment.  Then install the doors.

   John White, Shop Manger, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   vwalla | Jan 23, 2007 07:20pm | #8

   Thanks John.  I probably should have thought it through more...At least it is for personal use & I can "adjust" after it is filled.

   Would a face frame have prevented it from racking, given all other joints are secure?

   Always learning.

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 23, 2007 07:48pm | #9

   Despite what others have stated, large open fronted boxes are a weak design and prone to racking problems no matter how carefully made. 

   Anything that adds stiffness to the front of a cabinet helps to avoid the problem, so a face frame with as wide a joint surface as possible between the vertical and horizontal pieces of the frame will definitely help.  Adding fixed shelves will help somewhat, especially if they have facings.  On large pieces like yours, I try to build some way to level the piece right into the legs.

   John White

    

7. 
   USANigel | Jan 23, 2007 10:14pm | #10

   It looks great!

   Just add some hidden levelers to the feet for when its in its final home and it will be fine. When it full of wine it will "rack" if not level and you will need to adjust it. Bottom shelf might need stiffening due to the weight of bottles.

1. 
   vwalla | Jan 23, 2007 10:22pm | #11

   Thanks!  I will post pics after it is complete.

   The bottom has much support underneath to support the weight of the wine/liquor.

   Vwalla

8. 
   cscwem | Jan 24, 2007 01:20am | #12

   are you saying that it racks even now, not that it racked and held it's position, but that it will still rack back and forth?

   the least obtrusive  might be some triangular corner blocks applied to the inside of the cabinet near the front to provide lateral bracing between the case top and sides...

1. 
   vwalla | Jan 24, 2007 01:29am | #13

   It only racks when it is moved.  Once set in place, it does not rack.

   I thought about the blocks myself...and may still go that route.  Maybe something decorative to accent that area may help with the asthetics.

   Thanks,

   Vwalla

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 24, 2007 01:37am | #14

   Blocks, to be minimally effective, would have to be in all four corners and at least 3" on a side, and even then they wouldn't completely stop the racking.  You rarely, if ever see this done, because it doesn't work especially well and it doesn't look good.

   As long as the box is stiff, just square it up once it is installed.  There's nothing amateur about doing this, I've done it numerous times.

   John White

   Edited 1/23/2007 5:39 pm ET by JohnWW

   Edited 1/23/2007 6:18 pm ET by JohnWW

2. 
   hammer1 | Jan 24, 2007 02:13am | #15

   Although they won't add significant racking strength, glue blocks are commonly added to furniture joints, increasing glue surface and some rigidity. Better quality furniture often uses them liberally. They aren't visible in most applications and are easy to add. Every little bit helps.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   vwalla | Jan 24, 2007 03:46pm | #16

   Hammer1...I have seen this before on nice furniture. 

   John...I think that I am going to level IT & adjust the doors as needed. 

   I am currently in the finishing phase & will post some more pics.  I picked up an HVLP spray system (99 bucks @ woodcraft).  This thing is great if anyone is interested in getting into to spraying finishes.  Real easy to use...just FYI

   V

1. 
   vwalla | Jan 30, 2007 06:03am | #17

   Here is the finished cabinet.  Thanks for all the help & advice!

   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=34148.1

   Vwalla