Hello,
I am really steamed. I just got through building someone a book case with maple ply shelves. Spent extra on the nicer plywood at the lumberyard. Build the shelves without a hitch. Then, during the finishing stage, I noticed a “bubble” on one of the shelves.
It looks like the ply has an air pocket under it. The area of the bubble is about 1″ in diameter.
Of course, the bubble has to be on the top of the shelf, and on the shelf that is right at eye level. Couldn’t it have ended up underneath, or maybe near the back of the shelf, or at least on a lower shelf?
Does anyone have a trick for fixing this?
Replies
Can you smash the bubble flat? If so, you can try injecting some thin superglue with a hypodermic needle and syringe. Inject the glue, spray a piece of wax paper with accelerator, place treated paper on a firm block of wood, quickly press onto the bubble and clamp tight. The superglue will squeeze out but, at least, on a lacquer finish you can't tell. As always, try this on some scrap first.
Jeff
I was thinking along the same lines as the first poster. Lee Valley has a glue kit for chair legs that would work.
I have had this happen. I have had best results by just slitting the veneer with a straight razor to let out the trapped air. If the veneer is stretched, it gets trickier...
What did you lay the veneer down with? If it was yellow glue, it is somewhat thermoplastic, and a warm iron will do best, with no additional glue needed.
Bioman,I didn't lay the veneer. This is 3/4" maple ply I bought from a lumberyard. I'm not sure how they apply the veneer.
After checking the "bubble" a little closer, I realize that it is actually a space in the plies underneath the veneer. In other words, it's not that the veneer has lifted. There is missing material beneath the veneer. I know this because when I push on the "bubble" it depresses below the surface a good 1/16".
I don't know which is worse. But the real issue here is that I didn't notice the problem until I had layers of finish on the surface, so to fix it I would have to also disrupt the finish, which otherwise looks great.
But your suggestions of slitting the "bubble" may still work, as I can fill the void with some sort of glue. Perhaps the presence of a void will make it easier.
Matthew
Edited 6/23/2005 11:53 am ET by Matthew Schenker
You have a void in the base veneer. Real PITA to repair after it's finished. Since you have finished it completely with lacquer, I'd suggest stripping that shelf, removing the veneer over the void, and cutting a "dutchman" to fit the void. If you fill the void with anything that outgasses, it will lift the lacquer, or turn the area white.
When I buy veneer ply, I usually try to get the "Pro-Core" which has a layer of MDF under the face veneers. Never have found a void in that stuff. If you can't find that, make a claw with your fingers and scratch over the entire surface of the face veneer. When you encounter a void, the sound changes. If you buy in quantity, a reputable dealer will usually take back the sheets that have voids. Always specify "B or C (stain) grade. It usually has less voids.
Tough situation. I would build up layers under the void a little at a time to account for final shrinkage; I would not want to end up with a concave. In that case I would use a syringe with a larger bore needle and filler thinned down.
Working in a hospital environment has it's advantages, good luck, let us know how it works out.
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