Hello everyone. I am new to this forum so please pardon me if this question has already been asked (I could not find one like it).
Basically, I have spent a huge amount of time creating a nice blanket chest, only to possibly have ruined it by my horrible staining technique. I had sanded the piece to 220 grit, removed all the dust, applied a pre-stain wood conditioner, waiting 15 minutes, wiped it off, and then applied a penetrating wood stain (MinWax Red Oak #215). After waiting the prescribed time and wiping it off, the color was VERY, VERY uneven all over the piece. In some areas, it looks as if I sealed some of the grain due to glue-seepage during the assembly. In frustration, I applied more stain and instead of wiping it off, I allowed it to sit overnight. Now the piece is sticky in some places, and the color is still uneven in spots.
Is this hopeless or can I just run some mineral spirits over it removing most of the pigment, re-sand, and re-stain?
Oh, BTW: The project was made using pine.
Replies
The stain on the surface isn't a good thing, at the least obscuring quite a bit of grain. It will likely eventually dry, but be soft, since it has a oil/varnish mix as the binder. I'd remove it the best I could--with mineral spirits if that still cuts it, or with stripper if it doesn't. Re-sand as best you can. You probably won't get every trace, but that won't end up as a problem in most cases.
Next, after getting it ready again is the question of what to do that will be better. Pine is one of the most challenging woods to stain. I like to use an aniline dye to set the basic color range, seal the wood, and then to seek up on the final color with very lightly tinted finish, or in many cases a darker toned shellac, such as garnet shellac.
Hey Steve,Great suggestions. I went out and purchased some stripping chemicals and odorless mineral spirits. Hopefully, I can get a lot of it out and try it again.
Steve,
Would you first seal the pine with perhaps a dewaxed shellac?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
If you aren't going for a really dark look you can use a wash coat of 1 lb. cut dewaxed shellac either mixed from flakes or by combining 3 parts Seal Coat to 2 parts alcohol. (Seal Coat is 2 lb. cut straight from the can, a bit heavy I think for a wash coat under a water mixed dye.)
By the way, to discover glue seepage before it becomes a problem just make a practise of wiping the surface down with naptha. Any glue will stand out.
If it's any consolation, there are probably few woodworkers who haven't made the fundamental mistake you made on this project: not trying the finishing schedule on scrap wood before finishing the project you worked so hard on. It's a real downer, isn't it? My catastrophe was in birch plywood, and boy was it ugly.
If you want to do any research on the problem, it's called "blotching" or "finishing blotch-prone woods." Best of luck with the resurrection.
Thanks for the assistance. I went out and bought some stripping materials and what appear to be sanding sponges. Hopefully, I can remove most of it and start again.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled