Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Aug 10, 2004 08:13pm | #1

   hey fg,

    Unless you have plenty of room, a mending plate can be harder to attach than you think (from the backside).

      I'd use wood glue or epoxy applying it all over the fracture and if you can't clamp it, wrap electrical tape tightly until the "wound" is dry.

2. 
   robkelly | Aug 10, 2004 09:08pm | #2

   I'd do this:  Take a piece of wood 3/4" x 2.25", 2" shorter than the drawer opening. This is "A". Clean off the splinters from the broken piece so it's flat in back. Make a piece "B" identical to A. Cut a piece of wax paper somewhat larger than B. Put wood glue on the back of the broken piece and on A, and in the broken part of the wood. Clamp everything together with a lot of clamps so it's stacked (from the front) B-waxpaper-broken piece-A. When it's dry, fill the front of the broken piece with the appropriate wood filler, sand and stain.

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 11, 2004 07:14pm | #7

   Thanks, guys, for all the good ideas.  I had not thought about reinforcing it from the back, a great tip Rob.  I think I'll combine that with Jackplane's suggestion (epoxy coat) and leave it at that. 

   My original idea to put a tie-plate (the kind that looks like a small, rectangular piece of Swiss cheese) on the bottom side.  I can see where reinforcing the back would be mo' better.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   notDusty | Aug 10, 2004 09:49pm | #3

                    I would most likely remove the entire old compromised rail , cut a new one and finish to match using pocket screws fasten from the backside. Or use screw blocks on each end to fasten in place , either way use glue .You may have to score the rail and cut a clean joint at each side.

                        good luck       dusty

                  "how good you are, is how good you fix your mistakes"

4. 
   SawdustSteve | Aug 11, 2004 12:28am | #4

   Just like a woman... using a crowbar when EVERYONE knows that a M1 firecracker is the proper tool for removing bench tops! Repair??? If it's broke, you don't need it. SawdustSteve

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 11, 2004 07:17pm | #8

   Too funny, Steve!  Darn! and I went and did it again last night.  Hmmmmm, I think the fireworks stands at the reservation are closed at the moment.  Will have to stock up around New Year's, LOL.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Steinmetz | Aug 12, 2004 01:45am | #9

   FG, Buy a length of 1/8" x 3/4"x3/4" aluminum angle  (Home Depot) and cut with a hacksaw  to span the back of the 'Skirt'

   It can be shorter than the existing skirt. Straighten out the severed pieces , clamp the angle across the back.

   Then, carefully drill four through holes ( Thru wood and metal) and counter sink the holes in front (One at a time) and add flat head machine screws and nuts. The result will be so strong, that you could stand on it (Hubby too .ED

   You need 4 # 10-24 x 1" long flat head machine screws and hex nuts

   Drill bit Use # 11 Number size drill

   After 'Dry fitting', remove screws, nuts and 'Flitch plate.

   'Then 'Butter' the back of the wood with pliobond glue, and  screw it

   all together. Steinmetz

   Edited 8/11/2004 6:50 pm ET by steinmetz

   Edited 8/11/2004 6:56 pm ET by steinmetz

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 12, 2004 06:23pm | #10

   Thanks, Steinmetz.  That sounds like an excellent idea.  Could probably get the angle iron here at the local Lumbermen's store.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

5. 
   desertrat | Aug 11, 2004 02:51am | #5

   forestgirl;

   Rob has the idea, just reinforce it from the backside, no need for screws etc., just use glue.  It'll hold up OK.

1. 
   Patto | Aug 11, 2004 10:54am | #6

   If you want to take a little strain, the way I have reinforced wooden trees on saddles is with a carbon fibre bandage and epoxy. Used to use fibreglass but the Carbon Fibre is about half the thickness. You need to put a bonding or key coat on first.

   This works on saddles but they are well covered cosmeticly. You can drive tacks through it for the 'upholstery'. I got the stuff at a chandlers dealing with racing yachts, they will advise on the epoxy that will bond best to the wood.

   This doesnt work reinforcing long thin bent pieces with lots of holes for fiddly bits of turning, but seemed like a good idea at the time.