I haven’t got the answer to this so I figured I’d post it here and ask the experts.
A friend of mine has an old cedar chest. He has already taken the finish off down to the wood (it’s an antique but what’s done is done …) and found the top is veneered. In one section the veneer has a bit of a bubble that he intends to return to it’s original flat state. I do not know what glue was used but the chest is reputedly around 100 yrs. old. Someone told him to drill a small hole in the bubble, force glue into it and weight it down till it dries. He turned to me as the “expert” (RIGHT!) to see if this was the right procedure. Since a refinish is now required after sanding, how would you go about this repair? (I know the guy and he won’t let it be … he’s going to try something so I’d rather it was the right thing).
Thanks
Ken
Replies
Ken, the veneer was undoubtedly put on with hide glue which is very easy to repair, especially since you don't need to preserve the finish. Hide glue will soften under heat and moisture. Warm up a clothes iron to low heat. Lay a moist cloth over the bubble and heat the area with the iron, using firm pressure, taking a periodic peek to make sure your not burning the wood.
PS: If you can post a picture, maybe we can confirm or dispute the trunk's age.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 7/23/2003 12:09:24 PM ET by forestgirl
Thanks FG ... I was thinking it might be hide glue but if it isn't as old as I've been told it might be something else. Still, heat and steam shouldn't hurt anything. Customer just walked in the door so I've got to go sell a computer ...
ThanksKen
SparrowHawk-
If this "bubble" was mine to repair, I would slit the bubbled veneer with a razorblade to allow the air to escape,then apply the warm iron to the spot, only long enough to activate the glue. I wouldn't introduce any water into the process. More than likely moisture is the cause of the bubble. After it's pressed down there'll be a slight bump to level off where the two sides overlap,but thats no biggy.
Thank you for your suggestion. I will pass it on to my friend. This should work even if it isn't hide glue as the heat will soften the fibers and allow him to re-form the veneer. Learning more each day .... :+)
Ken
Ken, lostarrow is correct, you can slice it open and reactivate the hide glue with heat (160* according to Dresdner's article in WWer's Journal last month).
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG-
Thanks for your stamp of approval and for clearing me with Dresdner. I appreciate it.Be not afraid of going slowly. Be afraid only of standing still. chinese proverb
Sorry! That definitely came out weird. I was going to add a theory about what water would add to the process, left the keyboard to do something, and must have come back and clicked on POST without doing it. So, maybe you can answer me this one: If for some reason you didn't want to make a cut in the veneer, would using a damp cloth help in reactivating the hide glue??? Both water & heat work for the softening/reactivating, but I'm wondering if the moisture would go through the veneer sufficiently to make a difference.
Again, I do apologize!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG-
No, I think you best take water right out of the equation. You should consider what happens when water and wood get together. Expansion, then shrinkage.And you don't want that when you're laying veneer. Water/steam is probably OK to use if you were removing veneer,but not when you're trying to stick it down.Be not afraid of going slowly. Be afraid only of standing still. chinese proverb
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