Replies

1. 
   bill_1010 | Nov 03, 2003 07:47am | #1

   id remove the current chuck, clean the taper very well and replace the chuck with an aftermarket chuck of good quality.

   Then check your runout. It will probably go away, if not look to the bearings.

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 03, 2003 09:08am | #2

   Ray

      Have to agree with WmP. Probably the chuck was bumped in the moves. It may be cocked side-ways. Take it off, clean it WD-40 for grit and check throughly for damage as WM stated. Replace the chuck if no damage as your manual indicates. If that doesn't do it or you see obvious damage, replace it with a Jacobs TP#3 or some other quality chuck.

      Could be bearings as WMP mentioned, but you said you had hardly used it. Possible bad bearings from the git-to, but I doubt it.

   Good luck...

3. 
   Steinmetz | Nov 03, 2003 10:25am | #3

   Ray.If after you remove the chuck and before you replace the chuck, you run the DP at higher speed, then hold a piece of chalk briefly to the spindle's tapered end.                                 

    Shut off and examine the chalk mark. If shaft is not 'True', the chalk mark won't carry all the way around the shaft.(Bent)

   If, however the mark goes all around the trouble is your chuck.(Shaft not bent) buy a Jacobs chuck and chuck the ond one. Stein.

4. 
   JohnWW | Nov 03, 2003 07:49pm | #4

   Do you get the same runout with any drill bit?

   John W.

5. 
   BobSmalser | Nov 03, 2003 10:36pm | #5

   I's dismantle. clean the chuck and taper and try again before I spent any dough.

1. 
   Raimo | Nov 04, 2003 07:25pm | #6

   Delta drillpress running just fine now, thanks to all. First I took off the chuck by bandsawing a wooden wedge shaped like a horseshoe to go around the chuck base and cleaned the tapered and polished cylinder (is this the quill or is the hole the quill??).Fairly firm tapping was needed to loosen the chuck. I then inspected the taper and the hole into which it goes and cleaned it with varsol ( couldn't find DW40 !! in the house..left it at the cottage I guess). No obvious problem was seen on the surfaces. After reassembly I chucked a good quality Forstner bit and lo and behold..it was running absolutely perfectly. Prior to all of this I did chalk both the chuck and the bearing side of things and found the chuck to have the runout. I am not sure what the original problem was but my first suspicion is that the drill bit was off. It is also possible that the chuck had fallen out in the moves and was reattached by somebody with some dirt on it. In the event that a future problem of this type is queried on this forum by someone else I would suggest first that the drill bit be assessed first, then the chuck attachment. I am grateful for the advice and once again this forum has come to my aid!! The wonders of the internet!!

1. 
   Mackwood | Nov 04, 2003 09:52pm | #7

   Ray,

   Ain't it great when technology works in your favor once in a while!! 

   Enjoy your newly "accurized" DP!!

   Mack

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 05, 2003 05:33am | #8

   ray

      When computers were really getting started back in the early 70's, I saw one go down at an Air Freight Company. The repair person came and checked everything for almost an hour. Just couldn't pin-point the problem till someone noticed that the electrical plug had been kicked off the wall outlet behind by the operators foot. Computers were not a science in those early days and probably still aren't. ha..ha..

      What seems to be a complicated problem is often solved with a simple solution. Always start at the beginning. Basics Rule...

   Regards for a trouble-free day...

   sarge..jt

1. 
   Knothead05 | Nov 05, 2003 07:29pm | #9

   Discovering this DP runout discussion has made my day!  I'm in the middle of exactly the same problem, and had begun thinking it hopeless. 

   The BEST part...now another good reason to prove to my wife that surfing the "net" and Knots each morning is essential, not a bad habit I'm hooked on.  Now, if I can only find a discussion group on fixing dishwashers...

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 06, 2003 01:41am | #10

   Knothead

      Find an excuse to call the repaiman on the dish-washer. Too much down-time on the WW'ing end. Just don't let her read this. I stay in eniugh trouble. ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

2. 
   Knothead05 | Nov 06, 2003 03:51am | #11

   But Sarge, spending SOME time on "honey-do" projects is like investing in the stock market.  Time spent on certain projects brings such appreciation that much MORE time is then available for WW'ing...good investment.

   But like the market, one never really knows which investments are the good ones - at least until it's too late.

   The dishwasher has definately been a BAD investment!

   Perhaps there should be chat rooms on Knots on how to fix certain home appliances and solve other such ills.  Would be like our own personal investment advisors...

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 06, 2003 05:32am | #12

   Knothead

      I already know how, I'm just not lettting her know I know. I think she's on to me though. Probably many years of knowing I know and pretending she doesn't know I know.

      I think I better go finish sharpening those 18 chisels. Now that I know. ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

6. 
   MichaelPB | Nov 06, 2003 06:10am | #13

   I use a lot of big Forstner bits in walnut doing specialized gunstock work and runout and drill slippage were both a big problem for me.  I bought the Super Ball Bearing Jacobs chucK ($100)  and it is about 30% bigger than the import chuck, with half the pressure on the chuck key, the bit NEVER slips and runnout is almost nill.

   Took a decent tool and make it perfect.  That and a quill lock, I would never own a drill press without one.

   Michael

1. 
   user-134407 | Nov 07, 2003 02:35am | #14

   I've been having the same problem. I'd like to upgrade my chuck; what are the main aftermarket brands, and how does one choose? And where do you find them - I've never seen them advertised in the catalogs I drool over.

   Thanks!

   Jim

1. 
   Steinmetz | Nov 07, 2003 05:15am | #15

   Jim, look up Jacobs chucks You can't go wrong with them.  Find out what taper is on the spindle and buy the chuck to match

    Assuming your's opens to 1/2", try to get the same size capacity, as a larger size will not handle very small bits.

   Get the type which has 'Pop Out" chuck key.(  I keep a magnet on my drillpress column to retain the key (and some oft used bits too) (Impossible to forget to remove)  Stein

1. 
   user-134407 | Nov 09, 2003 06:44pm | #17

   Thanks guys!

   How do I find out what taper I have? I have a 7 year old Delta 17-900 16 1/2" Floor drill press. I looked through the manual and the parts list, and I can't find any reference to which taper the chuck has.

   Jim

1. 
   Steinmetz | Nov 09, 2003 07:24pm | #18

     Jim, Jacobs 33  Chec if the taper is 1 " long/ About 1/2" wide at the narrow end,and about 5/8" at the wide upper end. Stein. 

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Nov 09, 2003 07:56pm | #19

   Jim

      To add to what stein said, it's usually cast onto the chuck. May require a magnifying glass, but you're looking for something like JT 1, JT 2 or JT 3. I prefer the #3 as it allows me to use very small bits for metal drilling. After you become accustomed, you can just look at the chuck and know which it is.

   sarge..jt

2. 
   UncleDunc | Nov 07, 2003 08:35am | #16

   Ditto what Stein said, Jacobs is the default choice. A Jacobs ball bearing chuck allows you to really crank down on the drill, but does cost more than the normal non ball bearing model in the same size.

   If you prefer a keyless chuck but still want secure drill holding, Albrecht makes high end keyless chucks that are way more expensive than the corresponding Jacobs models. You can even get Albrecht chucks with diamond impregnated jaws, for a tight grip on carbide drills.

   I've also seen chucks by Rohm & Haas, from Germany, and Snap-On.

   I buy all my machine tool accessories from MSC. Their URL is http://www.mscdirect.com

   Edited 11/7/2003 2:07:18 AM ET by Uncle Dunc