Fixing gaps in mitered face frame
I’ve got some small gaps in the mitered joints of face frames I built. Rest assured, I have already flogged myself repeatedly for my lack of perfection. Rebuilding the frames is not an option at this point.
I need solutions for fixing the gap. They’re very small, but the wood is very light (unstained bamboo), so the line shows. Finish will be blonde shellac – no stain.
PVA glue and sawdust?
Cyanoacrylate glue and sawdust?
Very thin plane shavings (gap may be too small)?
Divine intervention?
Replies
There is no magic incantation only precise work
I enjoyed your sense of humor there. That helps.
These tools will help you but you must study cabinet making from books and magazines to know how to use them. It is kind of silly to retype all that text all over again here.
THEN
If after you study up and practice and get stuck
we can help you with the finer points. Or at least we can argue amongst our selves about the various points and that will at least entertain you while you discover for yourself were you went astray.
FORGET THE GLUE AND SAW DUST.
Once the joints are perfect, visually, then you can prime the end grain with some thin glue, let that soak in a bit then glue the end grain together to help keep the edges from taking on or loosing moisture and having the gap open here or there depending on the humidity change from the time you made the joint. I find epoxy works best. That is the strongest for end grain gluing.
BUT
It will not make gaps look right. The joint has to be right on to start. The wood needs to be acclimated to the space it will occupy first before cutting it.
Here is an example; see photo. This miter was refined to fit then the end grain primed with thin epoxy then glued up with more epoxy. It has not opened up even though it probably would show some gap after all this time if I had not epoxied the end grain. This photo was from when I first made the joint but it has not opened up at all after several years. One needs to plane all the epoxy off the face before finishing or it will act as a resist and the finish will not stick and the glue will show.
Learn to cut joints accurately and to refine the joints to perfection.
Tools you need :
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chisel
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=1
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/Setting%20Up%20and%20Using%20a%20Shooting%20Board4.html
http://books.google.com/books?id=lSVMWpzqfNgC&pg=PA143&lpg=PA143&dq=donkey+miter+plane&source=bl&ots=n3reX_49f-&sig=Gzi7NRdsKGDAuqON3FHdcfwqX7s&hl=en&sa=X&ei=aXKoT9-hAurjiAK3jpnGAg&ved=0CFcQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=donkey%20miter%20plane&f=false
Small Gap
You can try sanding dust ( not saw dust) from the same wood as the face frames - mix with a little shellac and make a filler -
SA
I'd go with divine intervention.
Try Shellac sticks
You can get them from Mohawk. You will need a burn in knife and alcohol lamp to heat it or you can get an electric or butane knife. The sticks are easy to use and available in many colors.
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=109
http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=55
try gel cryocycolate
If its very small shoot some jel cryocycolate (superglue) into the crack let it set and sand it will blend and unless the gap is large you won't notice it. Done it many times. I'd try a test first. cut a couple test pieces glue them up with a gap and put it in and try it complete with finish. Don't sweat it. you will probably be the only one that even notices it.
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