I’m new to the forum, and hoped I could get some help with something I’m struggling with. Even though I’ve seen and read about it, I can’t find it when I need it – how do you use a jointer to flatten some warped stock? I have some 42″ long pieces of 7/8″ thick 4″ wide maple that, when you look down the edge lengthwise, is warped. Which side goes down on the jointer?
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Replies
Twister,
I find it easier to joint this board by placing the board so that the high spot is up. This means the ends of the board hit the joiner knives first and, eventually the face contacts the bed and you've removed the warp on one face. Putting the high spot on the table is also a method, but I have a more difficult time keeping the same spot flat on the table than the other method.
Hope this helps.
Kell
Twister, as Kell says, you're going to want to place the concave side down (high, or convex, side up). This question was discussed fairly extensively a couple of months ago, and since I had just bought my new :-) Jet jointer, the thread was of great interest to moi. The pros, and the 3 or 4 authors I've read on the subject, say concave side down. That provides more points of contact on the jointer bed and is safer and likely more effective in the long run.
I've tried it both ways, just as a test, and they seem to be right, wouldn'tcha know.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Whether it's the edge or the face, you want the ends of a warped board to be touching the table, the middle lifting off the table due to the warp.
However you can joint a crowned(convex) edge. I had to do this yesterday. After ripping a 2" piece from a 6" board(s3s) my 3-7/8" leftover was crowned on both edges.
I took it to the jointer and ran it through applying pressure on the leading end all the way through the operation, letting the trailing end float. This created a tapered board but I got the flat edge I needed.
Its a lot easier to joint a concave(dished) edge but sometimes you don't have one.
Do not press down in the middle of a board to flatten it as you pass it over the blades. This will cause you to cut an equal amount off the entire board and it will spring back when the cut is finished, leaving the same amount of warp.
Edited 11/22/2002 12:16:36 AM ET by jase
Thanks to you all - this helps me a lot!
Twister,
Just to confuse you, I advise the other approach. I prefer to joint with the crown down. This way you're not constantly trying to drag rough stock over the ends of the table, you're not forcing a bend in the wood through pressure, you can adjust how much you need to remove from different areas and keep maximum thickness/width easier, you don't end up wasting time jointing the whole length each pass, and it's safer. It's more safe because the knives are less likely to dig in a pull an elevated section to the table which can and will cause the board to kick back. For flattening twisted face stock you can also average out the twist and not fight it with each pass.
I guess I'm in the minority on this but not to long ago any employee that preferred the other method was welcome to use it in any shop they chose--well, any but mine.
Edited 9/10/2002 9:29:31 PM ET by Larry Williams
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