I am in the final stages of constructing a coffee table with a moderately figured flame birch top. I would like to finish it so as to really bring out the figure.
Any suggestions? (Any suggested methods will be tested on a scrap piece first, so don’t be shy.)
Replies
I made a cabinet from "flame maple" a few years ago and got a tip from Jeff Jewett in an article in FW: start with a water or alcohol-based transtint dye, followed by Danish oil. Turned out great!
alcohol-based transtint dye.. GOOD post but what color dye..I usually have to call my daughter that is really into color and get her opinion.. I'm not good at it...
Good point, Friend. I hate it when someone gives me only half the solution.
I used Dark Mission Brown...very thin to bring up the grain without coloring it. There are other color options:
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/TransTint.htm
I've had a great deal of fun with these dyes, making red and blue wood with tons of character. Get your daughter involved and play around with the possibilities...on scrap material, of course!
I picked up some nice flame birch veneer from somebody and used it to construct a large secretary/entertainment center. I used a Sam Maloof style finish 1 part tung oil, 1 part BLO, and 1 part satin poly. I put about 5 coats on rubbing briskly. Gives a nice color and really pops the figure, without altering the color much. I'll see if I can get a pic to post.
Wow. Your piece looks spectacular. I will give the Maloof finish a test run. If the finish on my table turns out well it might be the first creation I am not too emabarassed of to post post on the gallery.
If your Birch has any Flame at all the oil will bring it out. I would try it out on one of the lesser figured pieces, that way if it looks good you know the rest will be outstanding.Thanks for the compliment. That piece I did about 10 yrs ago. The pic doesn't show it but that piece is 9 1/2' tall and about 60" wide.Furniture...the Art of a FurnitureMaker
Edited 9/15/2005 12:58 pm ET by EarlKelly
I PREFFER TO USE FIGURED CHERRY MYSELF, WITH A NATURAL FINNISH. THE SAME STEPS WOULD WORK ON FIGURED MAPLE. I SAND THROUGH ALL THE GRITS UP TO 600, THEN USE AN OIL THAT IS COMPATIBLE WITH UREATHANE. THE OIL BRINGS OUT THE DEPTH OF THE FIGURE ENHANCED BY THE VERY FINE SANDING, AND THE UREATHANE GIVES ME THE DURABLE COATS THAT WILL TAKE WEAR. ALSO THE OIL TENDS TO ENHANCE THE WAY THAT ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT AGES THE WOOD, SO THAT FROM ONE YEAR TO THE NEXT THE PIECE ACTUALLY DARKENS, A NATURAL PROCESS THAT I PERSONALLY FIND INTRIGUINGLY LOVELY. ON OCCAISION I HVE DONE PIECES THAT CUSTOMERS HAVE WNTED STAINED A PARTICULAR COLOUR, AND FOR THIS I FOLLOW THE SAME STEPS, SANDING TO 600, BUT I WASH THE PIECE WITH WATER AND DRY IT WITH EACH OF THE LAST TWO GRITS, THEN USE A WATER BASE ANNILINE DYE (I FIND THE DYE TO BE MORE COLOUR-FAST, AND IT DOESN'T IMPAIR SEEING THE DEPTH OF THE FIGURE) THEN THE UREATHANE FINNISH.
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