I occasionally use my table saw to cut a variety of grooves, small dados, tenons, etc. (e.g., cuts that don’t go all the way through the work piece). I use a FWW II saw blade, which, like most table saw blades, has “alternate top bevel” (ATB) teeth. This results in a small, convex “V” pattern at the bottom of any cut made by the blade.
I’d like to get a blade that has an occasional flat cut tooth to eliminate the “V” pattern. I’ve looked at the Forrest site and I don’ t see that they offer a WW II saw blade with anything other than ATB teeth. Forrest does, however, offer a chop saw blade, whose pattern is 4 teeth cut in an ATB pattern, followed by one flat-cut tooth. I assume this blade is intended solely or primarily for cross cuts.
Any suggestions for blades that are suitable for use on a TS in both the cross-cut and rip direction that have a flat cut? Or would this be a “no-no” for some reason?
Thanks. -JHH
Replies
Forrest makes a blade which will cut a flat bottomed dado. Give 'em a call.
John
Sears. Look thru the rack and you'll find one with a raker tooth setup. As for the Dado's I use the wobble style sears dado blade. Fast accurate and surprisingly no arc in the bottom of the dado. (I don't know how they do it)
I use the Freud Teflon thin 60 toother for everything else but I own a ton of the other Sears blades and they do rake it cleanly.
Edited 3/17/2003 7:58:48 PM ET by Booch
You're describing an ATB-R blade.
Also, strictly for ripping, you can get a ripping blade that just has raker teeth. No good for crosscutting, however.
Freud makes the LU84M, a Combination blade, 40 teeth, every 5th tooth is a flat-top. The others are ATB. I don't know if they have the same design in the Diablo line, which is the line you'll find at most big box stores.
If you want to check into them, try Ballew Saw and Tools.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The LU84M is a killer blade for the money. About a buck a tooth around here. It's got a 1/8" kerf, perfect for 10" tbl. saw. Dont care for thin kerfs much. They get the high speed wobbles sometimes.
Another vote for the LU 84M ....... sweet blade.
Hillen, I'm pretty sure what you're looking for is a combination blade designed for solid wood known as a 4&1, i.e., 4 ATB (alternate top bevel) & 1 (square) raker. This should do what you're after.
I can't imagine that Forrest don't make them, but if they don't, Amana certainly do, and I'm pretty sure Freud do to. The style is not the most sought after or purchased, but I buy them, and I use them a lot for general purpose solid wood hacking, and even man made board materials. Slainte.
Website The poster formerly known as Sgian Dubh.
I just bought a blade to do exactly what you are doing; my combo blade did great but had the ATB tooth pattern. I got the Freud LM-72 (flat topped, 20degree hook)from Highland Hardware at $39.99 and it works beautifully. I was cutting grooves in a small (1/2") walnut box and the blade did great.
I don't think I've ever had this much company on the Freud Bandwagon, LOL! This thread has inspired me to get an 84 to join the rest in the Freud Stable. Was doing some tongue and groove stuff last night, and the 72 would have been a big help.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 3/18/2003 12:41:52 PM ET by forestgirl
That 72 is looking like a good idea. My blade stable is still without a ripping blade also, and realized after re-reading the earlier posts that a 72 would be a better idea than getting another combo blade (already have two!). Had a heck of a time tonight ripping some 1x Alder. Wasn't all the blades fault -- stuff had some "tension" that was getting release during the rip, but still....forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Just recieved my LM74RO10 10"x30 WOW! You really almost can go right to glue up off the rip. Triple tooth design so you get the flat bottom. Even produced a real nice crosscut. Also couldn't get over how quiet it was. Real nice addition to the stable
So far, I've been very happy with Freud blades. Not surprised you're liking your new one! IMO, they easily compete with blades costing many percentages more.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie
Save and get the 72. Once you use a flat tooth rip blade you will wonder what took you so long to make the decision. I just ripped over 1700 flawless linear feet on one project and the blade started bitc*ing cause I gave it a break. ha..ha..
For ripping the blade is right and so is the price. It's makes ripping fun. Now, I just got to figure out what to do with all these extra ripped pieces. Could I glue them back into the assembly table and work-bench they were before I ran out of lumber to rip. Hmmm... the first lady is out shopping, I wonder how many ripped pieces I can get out of this dining room table...
Have fun... I am <G>
sarge..jt
Sarge
I agree, about 80% of the time my saw is used for ripping therefore 80% of the time I have a LM72R010 on my saw. I have two so that when one is being sharpen I have the other to use. I get them sharpen about every three months, find I get about four or five sharpening before I have to replace.
Scott T.
Scott
Ya da man...
sarge..jt
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