Flat tip saw blade for Sawtop jobsite saw cutting daddos (one pass at a time)
dkinsley
| Posted in General Discussion on
I want to make religious crosses with my Sawstop jobsite table saw but need a flat toothed blade to cut flat daddos one pass at a time. Any recommendations what blade to purchase?
Replies
Most any rip blade will have flat grind teeth. Of course, a dado set will make quicker and easier work of what you are doing.
Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately, the expensive Sawstop jobsite saw I bought cannot accept dado stacks.
Are you sure about this? The spec sheet mentions taking 8” dado blades. You do need a new brake cartridge for 8” dado blades though. The standard cartridge is for 10” blades.
I have the latest (smallest) jobsite Sawstop saw and it does not accept dado blades. Thanks for asking though and thanks for the reply.
Oh, the Compact Table Saw. There’s a model actually called the Jobsite Saw which does accept dado blades.
I use a Ridge Carbide flat top box joint blade for cutting flat bottom kerfs.
I use a Freud 24 tooth rip blade. It has a flat bottom. Don't assume that all rip blades have a flat bottom. Some don't. Box joint blades will also use a flat bottom.
Does that saw use full 1/8" kerf blades, or should they be thin kerf?
It uses full 1/8" kerf blades.
Maybe you have room for 2 or 3 blades?
If so, you can get a box joint blade set and
use what you can from it.
Just a thought.
I've an alternative idea. Use a regular saw balde. Buy a Veritas (Lee Valley) or Lie Nielsen router hand plane. It's what I use to flatten the bottom of housing dados and is really fast as it probably take all of 20 seconds to get the bottoms flat for crosses. It is one of the most fun hand tools I own. Come in from both sides of the groove so you don't get any blow out.
Thanks for that idea!
Don
100% agree. I own the LV (Veritas), it does an amazing job and yes it is really fun to use. Way more satisfying than trying to true with a power tool or a chisel.
I use a Ridge Carbide flat profile blade to cut dados. It’s 1/8” wide. I’ve had no issue making multiple passes to make a wider cut. It’s not a cheap blade but I’ve used it for all kinds of table saw joinery.
Going to play devils advocate here...
Why do the bottoms of the dados need to be flat? A few little ridges will still glue up fine. Especially for some little crosses that are not structural.
Try a regular combo blade and see how it goes. Have a little faith.
You can't do dados because the arbor is too short to accept a dado stack? Or is it because the brake can't handle the weight? Both? I don't have ,nor have I used a Sawstop but can you disengage the brake ,like unplug it or something, and it then maybe it operates like every other saw?
I often have done lap joints using my radial arm saw, same idea different tool, and I simply clean up the joint with a chisel,or router, or router plane.
Not how Sawstop works. Take out the brake it's a boat anchor. It is designed to prevent you from going around it. The saw he has is the smallest one and it will not take a dado set. When I bought the SS what I hated most was giving away all of my 8" blades, but I got over it.
So, like the doorlocks on my car. If I don't want them to lock they lock anyway! Over time I most certainly have more tied up in sawblades than the saw. I'll stick with my 66. I have a failsafe safety arrangement anyway. Never put my hand where the blade can get me!
A best plan is personal, the 66 is bulletproof. I'll bet somewhere in the 6000-page book that came with the car is a solution to your locks... or you could just ask any 9 year old to fix it for you!