Flatten Workbench Table Top?
I built a 72”x30” work bench 30 years ago from 4×4’s and I used pine 2×3’s for the top. It is nice and heavy. It has a Record vise and bench dogs. I still can’t afford a Sjobergs table. The top was built in two sections with planed/glued 2×3’s. It was never perfectly flat and now those two sections are separating a little and one has risen 1/8” above the other at one end. So it is uneven and a little wavy from being finished with a disk sander. I could fill the separation with epoxy or something but can’t figure out how to flatten the top. I could also purchase a 1.5” butcher block top for about $400 but that wastes a bunch of wood from the existing top. Maybe I shouldn’t care about any of this and just keep using it. Maybe there is a good way to flatten it that I haven’t considered. A flat/true top would be awful nice for layout. An additional perspective or 20 would be welcome. I always find great advice here. Thanks.
Replies
The real issue is that most things move back and forth, not just once. If you can get it to stay flat with something like steel angle from below it might be worth saving. After 30 years I think you've gotten your money's worth. Convert it to another use maybe?
Treat yourself to a new top if you want one. 1.5" thick feels light, what would the lumber for a new 3"-thick top cost in your area?
Two things come to mind. First, setup a router sled and flatten the top using the same technique used for slabs. Second, as MJ mentioned, replace the top. If you want an instant dead-flat workbench, consider a solid core door from a home center. They weight 80lbs, are 80" long and are available in different widths. My last choice would be to frankenstien a new top on the old.
A pic of how and where the top is separating would be good..
I agree that the 1.5" countertops are a bit light for a workbench, especially if you plan on doing some chopping. Solid core doors might be the same. However, this isn't a big concern and you're considering a solid core door, go to a salvage place like ReStore. They will have old solid core doors which have solid wood under a veneer. New doors have a different interior.
You should be able to flatten it using a scrub plane, a pair of winding sticks and a long straight-edge, then smoothing with hand planes or power sander. 1/8 inch of pine should scrub down pretty quickly. Just use your sticks and straight-edge to identify the high corner(s), mark with pencil or crayon, remove some wood and re-check until your winding sticks on the ends are parallel and your surfaces are flat in length and width directions
Plus, you can buy a top-notch scrub plane for significantly less than the $400 you would spend on the butcher block top, if you don't have one.
Another recommendation to handplane the benchtop flat.
Chris Schwarz provided a nice description of the process here:
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/flatten-a-workbench%E2%80%99s-top/
Thanks, nice article. Now to find a reasonably priced plane.
Router sled. Lots of videos.
Get a bottom cleaning or planing bit.
Check for nails!!!
You've done well. Making a top from 2x3s, I'm surprised it didn't end up looking like a potato chip.
I recently flattened my bench top. I used a restored Stanley #5, really sharp, and found the experience enjoyable. It got really flat too!
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