I am building a bed for my daughter out of solid mahogany. I made the headboard out of 5 boards that I had jointed and planed flat. The finished piece was too big to run through my planer, so I decided to hand plane it flat. I used a scrub plane first and then a jointer plane and got one face nice and flat. I waited until the next day to see if it was still flat, and when it was I did the other side. Now the headboard has cupped a bit across the grain. I had left the boards a little thicker than the finished width of 3/4″ to account for planing it flat, but I don’t want to remove a lot of additional wood now. Any thoughts about getting it flat?
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Replies
How long have you waited between planing?
It's generally best to plane both faces at a sitting, say to within ~1/8". Sticker it, and then after a ~10 days, plane down to within 1/16", from either face. Do the third, final milling about 3-4 weeks after the orignal, again from both sides. This should allow enough time for the wood to be stable. You can do it more quickly, but the surest way to minimize movement is tincture of time and stickering.
Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
OK, thanks for the advice. I'll wait another couple of weeks and take another shot.
If the cupping is caused by unequal planing, you can often just wipe or spray a bit of water on the convex side to bring it back to equilibrium and then plane the other side. (Just don't go TOO far and cup it the other way! <G>) Also, if the cupping isn't too bad, I wouldn't worry about it too much if it's not severe and the bed design will allow for straightening by attaching it to the posts, e.g., M/T joint between the headboard and posts.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I believe he should lightly mist the concave side, thus flattening the piece.
Before I carve large pie-crust platters from wide planks of air dried walnut, I begin by planing the sawmill marks from both sides, then usually lay them out on the morning grass until they cup, then flip them over till they reverse the cup. At this point, I return them to the shop, standing on end for a week or more, monitoring the flatness/movement, and when I feel that equilibrium has been reached, I plane both sides flat .... to finished thickness. If the plank cups, I set it aside for processing into narrower material. Often a plank that begins as a cupped board, from improper stacking during air drying, will come through this exercise totally flat ... as it was when it left the sawblade wet! Then there are those few suspect planks that react violently, and are thus better utilized as rippings!
John in Texas
"I believe he should lightly mist the concave side, thus flattening the piece."
Doh! Of course, that's correct. Sometimes my fingers just don't type what my head knows is right!
Mike Hennessy
Thanks for the advice. I misted it last night and could see it straightening within a few minutes. After it was almost dry I laid it flat on the floor with some weight on it. I think this will do the trick.
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