Replies

1. 
   _mj_ | Oct 16, 2023 08:40pm | #1

   Wood crimes are personal, if that's what you think it is then it is. I would argue it is not, but again, that's personal. If you are determined to do the work with what you have just go for it. As a bonus, the narrower you cut them the less thickness you'll lose to flattening. Keep careful track of where they go back together and you can achieve a pretty seamless reassembly glueup.

2. 
   jeff | Oct 16, 2023 09:23pm | #2

   For wide “treasure” boards, I’ll pay a shop with a wide belt sander/planer to take care of it for me.

3. 
   john_c2 | Oct 17, 2023 02:50am | #3

   Do you have a surface planer? If your board is only slightly cupped, and not twisted, just run it through the planer. Cupped side down first.

4. 
   _mj_ | Oct 17, 2023 09:11am | #4

   Popping it in the planer might be a bad idea. My planer's feed roller will flatten a cupped board to send it through, leaving me with a thinner cupped board out the other side.

1. 
   john_c2 | Oct 17, 2023 11:54am | #6

   Wow. I don't think my feed roller is strong enough to flatten a Pringle. It can't do anything to a one inch board.

   You have one of the Canadian combo machines, if I recall? How thin can you go?

1. 
   _mj_ | Oct 17, 2023 12:41pm | #7

   I can go down almost to 1/8" on the bed, and thinner with a melamine insert.

1. 
   john_c2 | Oct 17, 2023 03:38pm | #8

   No tearout? I'm guessing it's a spiral segmented head?

1. 
   _mj_ | Oct 17, 2023 03:47pm | #9

   Yes, but it will get hungry sometimes when you go that thin.

2. 
   john_c2 | Oct 17, 2023 06:01pm | #10

   I've been debating getting something that can go really thin. Spiral and segmented seems to be the way to go, since they seem to cut smoother. I'd like to go up to the 16 inch range at the same time. But it's probably a little way off. I'm getting a new knee next week, and another one 5 weeks later.

1. 
   _mj_ | Oct 18, 2023 06:24am | #14

   Jeebuz, good luck with the knees! If I had the space I would have gone with the 16".

5. 
   user-7627473 | Oct 17, 2023 10:08am | #5

   Ripping the wider board is certainly an "option" if the grain pattern/figure is not relevant. I would keep that in mind. I *always* joint edges with a plane - usually a a LN Jack or Jointer Plane...depending on length.

6. 
   jharveyb | Oct 17, 2023 07:21pm | #11

   First, trying to plane out a cup on a thickness planer is an uncertain operation. Better to use a hand plane to get the cupped side roughly flat, then plane the other side first and then the first side second. Any bench plane should be fine for this. However, if you want to hand plane edge joints on a long board, you will need a long jointer plane, such as a #7 or #8. That will work better for flattening out the cup anyway. You can plane diagonally on each diagonal to reduce the edges and get roughly flat. For example, if the board is 12" wide, you could leave a small section in the middle unflattened because the wide flat areas on each side will be riding on the planer bed. Check for twist with winding sticks as you are working down the edges. Your thickness planer will not take out twist well.
   If you are new to hand planes, you will have some learning ahead of you, to set one up, and to sharpen the iron. You may want to practice on less valuable wood. What you learn will permanently improve your woodworking.

1. 
   Deleted | Oct 18, 2023 09:01am | #15

   “[Deleted]”

7. 
   geedubbee | Oct 17, 2023 08:44pm | #12

   If you want to face joint on the planer, a planer sled (ShopNotes Mag has a couple of versions) is worth a Saturday morning to make. Mine took about 4 hours (not counting overnight for the glue to dry) and has been in use for over 15 years.

   
1. 
   mmdurocher | Oct 17, 2023 09:35pm | #13

   Great idea. Thanks!