Howdy folks – Got a workbench that needs to be flattened. I only ever got it sort of flat when I made it, but since most of my projects weren’t very big I could usually get my boards flat enough for use.
Now I’m building cabinetry and some doors and I need to true up and prepare stock that is the full length of the bench – 7 feet so I am faced with flattening the top properly.
The top is constructed of laminated 2×4’s per Bob Key’s instructions.
I have winding sticks that are true and are 48 inches long, so I can check flatness and twist across the width of the bench, but how can I check to be sure that it’s flat along the entire length? I don’t want to work at squaring up long stock only to find that it’s got a little belly in the middle cause the reference surface I was planing against wasn’t flat.
I’m not looking to get the top flat within .001 inches, but within a 1/16th along it’s length would be nice.
Any tips or methods of work are appreciated.
One last question, how level does the bench need to be? Perfectly level, or just level enough that I don;t feel like I’m planing uphill or downhill all the time?
Thanks.
HB
Replies
I use aluminum angle for this. You can get two 8' pieces of 1-1/2" × 1-1/2" aluminum angle from your friendly neighborhood hardware store or home center as your "longitudinal" winding sticks. You can compare them to each other in multiple orientations to ensure that neither one is bent. In addition to being winding sticks, they're also straightedges, so you can lay them along the surface and see where the gaps (low spots)are.
Level is not as important as flat, but level does have the advantage that the bench top becomes a reference surface, so you can use a spirit level, laser level, etc. referenced to the top.
-Steve
Yeah, the winding sticks I have are aluminum angle, but I got 4 ft lengths instead of 8.
I don't have room for 8 foot winding sticks unless the work is aligned parallel to the bench.
I do have a 6 foot level, maybe I'll try that.
Thanks for the suggestion.
HB
I'd get the top as flat as possible and then set a 3/4 inch MDF on top amd screw it down somehow!
I use a wooden straightedge. I always wanted a nice Starrett straightedge, but I can't work to the tolerance they are made to, and they are quite expensive; so several years ago, I planed a piece of straight grain cherry. It has held up nicely. I did it by eye, but you can use a string to check it, much like a mason or carpenter would a wall (i.e. offset the line by a known amount with blocks at each end and use the same thickness block to check the length of the board).
I installed my bench so the top was level. I have only rarely needed to use it as reference surface as far as level is concerned, but its nice to have it when you need it.
Rob Millard
http://www.americanfederalperiod.com
When you have it flat enough consider adding a sacrificial overlay of quarter inch ply or MDF. It will save a lot of hassel in the future and is easily replaced.
How long is your longest plane? Are you thinking of chasing the high spots by marking and planing, marking and planing? 1/16" flatness over 7' may be tighter than you really need, either in your project or in your bench. If you are working with solid wood, neither board nor bench will maintain that sort of flatness on its own.
What I would do is get a really long plane and plane until you get a full consistent shaving. You will need winding sticks for twist. Remember that you can usually plane in any direction.
Don't put anything on top of the bench that isn't easily removable (including finish?). You may find you need to plane that bench several times a year. I plane my bench at least twice a year.
Adam
Thanks for all of the input Fellas.
Adam - the plane I'm using is a stanley #7. I was wondering about how close the tolerance had to be along the length of the bench, but if even up to a 1/16th isn't an issue, then I should be able to work it close enough to flat with this plane.
I have the twist under control already through use of the winding sticks that I have. It wasn't too bad to start with, most of the movement had made the bench sag in the center along its length.
As far as the others mentioning putting a sacrifical top on it, I may make a cover for it to keep it clean when I use it as a finishing platform, but I don;t want to have to re-cut all of my dog holes and holes for holdfasts into a sheet of plywood or MDF. - besides, the sooner I wear it out and use it up, the sooner I'll be able to buy a couple of nice pieces of wood to make a new top from.
Thanks again fellas!
HB
I flattened mine the first time with a router sled and a 1 ½” bit. That worked great and was pretty fast. Now, I just hit it with a L-N #7 every other year or so to keep it flat. I have it set up level since I think it helps with keeping my surfacing truer. Also, I don’t put any finish at all on my bench top. I like the way the added friction hold the work.
> how can I check to be sure that it's flat along the entire length?
I use a 4' level. That's the longest one I have. You might want to pick up a cheap 6' aluminum level at your favorite big box. Even if it isn't a very good level, it will make a pretty good straight edge.
> One last question, how level does the bench need to be?
Mine is as level as the concrete floor it's sitting on; in other words, not very. At the other end of my shop, there's about 1/8" slope in 32", but I haven't measured it where the workbench is.
Someone mentioned using (tensioned) string to check a wooden straightedge. Why wouldn't that work for the bench top, going length and kitty corner ?
That would allow you to find bumps and hollows, but it won't help you if there's a twist.
-Steve
but it won't help you if there's a twist.Do not mean to get anybody mad. However... Stretch a string from two bench-dogs and be sure both ends of the string are the same height from your bench... OK, so the bench has to be flat also!
Edited 10/7/2007 12:32 pm by WillGeorge
If you have or have access to a jointer you could edge joint a long board and use that
Absolutely.George Patterson
When you like it, it is good enough. Move your straight edgers around, and you will see your twists and waves, hills and dales. You could rent a big orbital floor sander to start with, and that will get you closer than you'd think very quickly.
Also don't plan on getting satisfied with it the first day or weekend, because when you start looking for flaws with your nose right up to you work, you will find them.
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